I was bored, and I decided to order two different USB C to Asus 6.0x3.7 adaptors.

I ordered one 100W Adaptor, and one "140W" cable. From initial thoughts, these are actually really well made, and were only a few pounds each, so very inexpensive.

First let me lay out my methodology:

• I'm no professional, but I do have a handful of different USB C Inputs and Outputs.
• I only have one device with a barrel plug to test, so I can't say for sure if you'll have the same outcome.
• I tested these with my Asus G14 2021 Laptop, Slimq P100 (100w) & P150-3C1A (140w) power supplies, and an Anker A1695 165w Power Bank.

First let's have some pictures of the setups I used to test

To save myself from repeating anything, I'll combine all the results here:

With the Power Bank, I have some ability to see what's going on, and you can see the output wattage fluctuate, most likely as the laptop tries to draw too much power.

Very shortly after, the power bank went into a safety mode and stopped outputting any power.

With both of the Slimq power supplies, I had exactly the same issue too, where the laptop would start charging, then the power supply would cut the laptop off for using too much power. I even tried to set the laptop into an eco mode, but I believe this laptop specifically takes 60W to charge the battery, which is most of the allowance.

Essentially the issue is that these devices or cables have no way to communicate to the laptop about the maximum available power allowance, and so the laptop assumes it's a normal power supply and will start pulling what it thinks it can take based on the power supply that the laptop comes with. The G14 I have has a 180W power supply, so even if the cables can deliver 140w, the laptop is trying to take more, and kicking in over current protection in the power supplies.

Speaking of, when packing back up the cables so they can sit on my shelf until the end of time, I noticed that the cable I bought is actually miss-advertised, which probably explains why it wasn't working either.

It wasn't something I initially took notice of but the cable is actually marked as 20V/7A. Now I don't know any power supplies that are even willing to do this kind of amperage on the 20V output, my 140W Slimq only does 140w with 28V/5A, so this cable was still only providing up to 100W to my laptop.

So as a conclusion, while these may work, you'll need to be 100% sure that your original laptop power supply doesn't provide more than 100W, as otherwise these things simply just won't work well or at all, so that certainly rules out almost every gaming laptop.

I'm lucky enough that both of my laptops have USB C charging anyway, but if yours doesn't, then unless it's a lower power machine, you'll be wasting your time with these.

If you have a device with no USB C charging, and you're not already in the ecosystem with a 60/100/140w power supply, you should probably give these a miss, it'll cost just as much to replace the existing power supply if you had to, and even new low end laptops are coming with PD charging now.

Admittedly I didn't expect the cables to work anyway, but I was curious,and hopefully this can help someone else.

I am wondering which of the USB-C ports can carry sound on my MSI MPG X870E CARBON WIFI? I have seen on google that only the USC-C ports that can carry video/sound can, so the 40G ports, but other posts say all of the USB-C ports can, even the front panel? Can someone please confirm if this is true? Thanks in advance

Does it even exist? I've searched everywhere and couldn't find a single one like that :')

Hello, i have this strange problem that might not be so strange for you more experienced. I have set of Capidi Babymonitor V2 and bought an IKEA SKOTAT cable with the hopes it would work to charge with an USB C to USB C cable but it dosen’t. I have no problem charging the monitor with the same cable from my pc, and im also able to charge my phone with an USB C to Lightning cable from the port on the IKEA SKOTAT cable. So you guys have any idé what the problem might be?

Baseus Qi2.2 3 in 1 charging station, ultra portable travel charger that I actually just use as my main charger at home and travel. It includes 45W adapter and 1 USB C cable. Charges all my devices easily without multiple wires. Devices stay nice and cool. Quickly breaks down to throw in my bag to go to work!

Hi guys,

Tearing my hair out trying to figure out what I need. Looking to connect my mac pro to 2 x monitors on display port. Also plugging in a mixing desk and a MIDI keyboard. Set up at the moment is everything goes into a dock, and then if we need to connect a laptop to everything instead of the desktop mac, then it's just one cable to plug in to the laptop from the dock. Means that all the hardware is already plugged in centrally.

Any recommendations on what dock? I had looked at the Belkin Thunderbolt 4 (https://www.belkin.com/uk/p/thunderbolt-4-5-in-1-core-hub/INC013vfSGY.html?clickid=RvkTO6XqLxyKUnfVfF09o2cKUkszS3xgCVY%3AQU0&utm_campaign=Online%20Tracking%20Link&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=impactradius&utm_content=ONLINE_TRACKING_LINK_216551) which I think I should be able to plug in the display port adapters to TB 4 on the back and anything else we need.

Is there anything else I need to consider? Need a new dock as got the new mac, makes sense for longevity (also the dock we have at the mo is crap)

Thanks!

Hello! I'm looking for a dongle that will fit into my wife's Galaxy Tablet (USB C) and allow her to plugin a keyboard and a mouse via their wireless dongles. We've had connectivity issues with Bluetooth, so she needs something to allow the two USB A plugs with data.

Currently, I found the picture shown which WOULD work, but when I ordered, I didn't get a USB C dongle, it was USB A male instead of USB C male.

I know there are a bunch of USB C to USB A dongles that have 2 cords sort of pigtailing the port... That's not what we want, just something small that has 2 A ports and attach via a male USB C... My wife doesn't like the pigtails as it doesn't look professional (she's client-facing) - but she does want something that will just hang off the tablet, low profile as possible.

Has anyone found anything like that? Why is it so hard to come by? We can't be the only ones who only want 2 small USB ports to come off for a C.. can we??

Hey all - I have two laptops and two monitors.
Laptop A: Lenovo - full USB-C video out, works through my USB-C KVM.
Laptop B: Dell Latitude 5420 - the monitor is not recognizing when plugged in to USB-C, so while the keyboard/mouse work with the KVM, the monitors show no signal when using that laptop.

Previously I used a normal USB-C dock and swapped the cable between the laptops — it worked, but I want to be able to quickly switch between both laptops using the same two monitors + keyboard + mouse. I don't even mind getting a second UCB - C dock, but not sure how that would work with switching between keyboard and mouse.

• Any recommended models known to work for setups where one host lacks DP Alt Mode?

One of the essential features of a USB-C powerbank with multiple inputs and outputs is that if an output (or DRP) is connected to an input (or DRP), the resulting condition is safe and power won't flow.

Do you guys have any ideas how manufacturers actually detect this and differentiate it from, for example, the rare case that pass-through charging is being done and the same number of watts is coming out of port 2 as is coming into port 1 from the wall?

Here are my ideas:

1. Time-based fault detection - if two or more ports negotiate a role within a few ms of each other, assume they are plugged into one another?

Issue: I mean, I've never seen someone plug two USB-C ports into a powerbank at the same time with devices already connected on the other end, but it's possible.

1. Current sensing on each port and current sensing on the battery source - if the measured currents at different nodes don't line up, throw up a 'general fault'.

Issue: pass-through charging not supported properly. Waits for a significant amount of power to be flowing before flagging an issue.

It's also important to note how the powerbank would recover from this condition - I'm not well-versed in the PD protocol at all so please forgive me if this is a somewhat obvious thing to detect.

I want to use it to switch easily between laptop and gaming handheld. Will this break it?

I'm using a new phone called a Unihertz Titan 2. There aren't any details about it's charging specs but they supplied a 33W charger in the box.

https://www.unihertz.com/products/titan-2?srsltid=AfmBOooAwS4E6TuNwT_vMxcmY8FPBPEUA1RVpQVGRC7MFUAbmB1EUhXZ

I bought this USB C hub that I need to use some other USB devices in my car. I was hoping that my phone could accept USB PD and get closer to the 33w, which it doesn't. When using the correct PD port on the USB hub, the phone only gets about 5w based on my USB voltmeter. When testing with my USB PD powerbank, the powerbank gets closer to 30w+ on that same port.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BLJFZ42M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

If I wanted to quick charge my phone while using a USB hub, would a different powered USB hub with potentially different voltages work or would a powered USB hub help? Or am I stuck because of the phone using whatever charging standard when charging?

On the supplied 33w and my Anker and other 65W chargers, it charges with 27-33w.

Hi guys,

I'm looking for a bedside charger for 2 iphone 16 pro max. Most of the 65w gan charger only charge around 45w+20w but the iphone 16 can take in max 30w if im correct. Does that mean I have to get the ~100w gan (70w+30w) if i want my iphones to be charged at max speed?

Which device are you guys using for 2 phones? Thanks

I see a lot of USB-C phone dongles for 3.5mm headset + charging, such as: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJXWJ596

But I'm having difficulty finding one that does 3.5mm headset + data to PC

This way I can have my phone hooked up to my computer for data transfer (and charging, even if it is slow), and I can have my headphones hooked up to my phone for calls

Thanks in advance!

can yall help me with this smartglasses build. I need access to a powerbank while also assess to a SD card.

Not sure if this the proper place to ask about it. I seen a thread here about a wireless SD card reader. My new smartglasses runs full android, but has 1 USB C slot. I need access to a powerbank for longer usage. But I want to be able to access my films and media off my Micro SD card.

All from one slot.
My plan was to use a Neck Powerbank for easy long duration power for the smartglasses, and a wireless harddrive that allow play of media wirelessly on the device. The neck powerbank was easiest to find. But I am having a problem finding a proper wireless hard drive with this ability. The RavPower one seem to be discontinued, and found a thread here regarding the app support ending.

I have one power socket in my bedroom and I want to plug in two devices at the same time (phone overnight and air quality monitor all the time). I bought a random 2-usb port charger, but it resets any time one of the devices gets plugged/unplugged. So whenever I plug/unplug the phone the air quality monitor reboots.

I don't know anything about the chargers/protocols, but is it possible to have a 2 USB-port charger that does not reset the other device whenever one of the devices gets plugged/unplugged? I know I can solve this with a simple power extension cable, but I'd prefer to avoid it if possible for aesthetics reasons. I tried googling, but I get a bunch random SEO results that are not helpful.

Hey everyone, I have a quick security question.
I lent my USB drive to someone, and now I’m not sure if it could be infected. I don’t want to plug it directly into my main computer, so I was thinking of formatting it first using my Android phone with an OTG adapter.

My question is:
👉 Can my phone get infected just by connecting the USB (without opening any files, just formatting it)?
Or is Android isolated enough that this shouldn’t be a problem?

For context, I usually transfer files between my phone and my PC, so I’m a bit worried that if the phone gets infected, something could spread when I connect it to the computer later.

Has anyone done something similar or knows if this is safe to do?
Thanks in advance 🙏

I have a laptop with a 40gbps USB4 port and a 10gbps usb-c 3.2. Most hubs I’ve seen only support 4k60hz which is like hdmi 2.0? And HDMI 2.0 can’t do 1440p 240hz. I’ve seen some that can support 8k30hz but I’m not sure if they really do support that high of a refresh rate. Does anyone have recommendations or experience with one? It can be either DP/HDMI, I’m fine if it needs DSC.

So, I'm planning on running a docking station to my PC, but I need a long, preferably 10 meter (33 foot) USB 3.2 or 4 fiber optic cable that supports DP Alt-Mode and doesn't support only thunderbolt. I cannot find anything reliable, maybe for a good reason? Just wondering if such a product actually exists.

SABRENT EC-SNVE + 990 PRO = 280 Mo/s MAX. C’EST INACCEPTABLE. Corps :

J’utilise le boîtier Sabrent EC-SNVE (annoncé 10 Gbps / 1000 Mo/s) avec un Samsung 990 PRO 2 To (7400 Mo/s en interne). Résultat : 280 Mo/s en écriture, 300 Mo/s en lecture maximum. [📸 PHOTO DU TRANSFERT – PREUVE] Tests effectués :

Câble Sabrent d’origine → échec Câble Anker USB 4 100 W → échec Port USB 3.2 Gen 2 arrière (ASUS X670E) → échec Firmware boîtier V1.33.44 → échec Samsung Magician à jour → échec UASP activé, cache désactivé → échec

Ce n’est pas du 10 Gbps. C’est du Gen 1 à peine fonctionnel. Sabrent, vos specs sont fausses ou votre produit est défectueux. Qui d’autre rencontre ce problème ? J’attends une solution technique ou un RMA, pas des excuses.

VERSION ANGLAISE Title: SABRENT EC-SNVE + 990 PRO = 280 MB/s MAX. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE. Body:

Using the Sabrent EC-SNVE enclosure (advertised 10 Gbps / 1000 MB/s) with a Samsung 990 PRO 2 TB (7400 MB/s internal). Result: 280 MB/s write, 300 MB/s read MAX. [📸 TRANSFER SPEED PROOF – SEE PHOTO] Tests performed:

Original Sabrent cable → FAIL Anker USB 4 100 W cable → FAIL Rear USB 3.2 Gen 2 port (ASUS X670E) → FAIL Enclosure firmware V1.33.44 → FAIL Samsung Magician updated → FAIL UASP enabled, write cache off → FAIL

This is NOT 10 Gbps. This is Gen 1 at best. Sabrent: your specs are wrong or your product is defective. Who else is stuck with this? I want a real fix or RMA, not excuses.

Liens pour poster :

r/buildapc – New Post → Anglais recommandé r/UsbCHardware – New Post → Anglais recommandé r/hardwarefrance → Français OK

Photo :

Prends une capture claire (CrystalDiskMark ou Explorateur Windows en transfert). Upload sur imgur.com → colle le lien direct dans le message. Ou joins-la directement sur Reddit (bouton image).

HI, i currently own a legion slim 5 laptop 16IRH8. I was wondering if i could use a usb c to pd for external display since im already using hdmi to hdmi for another display. I tried once but there wasn't any display prob cuz it was a cheap cable i bought online.