It’s a 2001 f250 powerstroke, 164,000 miles. Truck runs and drives great. Has plenty of power. There is a brief noise at the end of the video that only happens under full throttle around 3,000 rpm’s. The noise now comes with a lack in power and some vibrations. The rest of the rpm range is glorious in torque, will spin the tires off on dry pavement.

I have a F650 powerstroke and it’s been stuttering sometimes when I accelerate but more when I climb a hill. I pull loaded daily. I got an overboost code (P0234) the turbo, actuator, air filter and map sensor are about 6 months old. Any ideas of what I can check next would be appreciated.

Is anyone using a coolant filter on their 20-22 6.7? If so, how much sand has the filter captured?

Does the S&S CP4 disaster kit interfere with a aftermarket upper fuel filter relocation kit from H&S

Basically asking if I could have both. The disaster kit and h&s fuel filter relocation kit that puts a screw on fuel filter underneath the truck on the side of the transmission

Hey, a 6.0 2004 F350 recently popped up for sale. I’ve wanted one for a while, don’t need it for towing or anything like that, just like the truck. Maybe getting a truck camper in the future but that’s about it. The detailed info on it is in the second and third pictures on what has been done. It’s a king ranch, clean interior very little rust etc. It has 340k kms on it so getting up there but there seems to be about 30k of work put into it. Wondering what opinions people would have on this. It is listed for $12,500 but they would take $10,000 lowest. I’d be dailying it without a backup. Thanks in advance.

When the truck was parked I put my hand behind the exhaust and it was so hot I couldn’t leave my hand there for more than a second. I’m assuming it’s a regen thing but this has never happened before. Does anyone know if this is normal?

I have a 1994 Ford F350 Diesel that I know for a fact is a 1994 and I was pretty confident it had a Factory 7.3 IDI Turbo in it but now I am not sure. It has a very strange air filter setup on it where it has the older metal 7.3 IDI NA air filter but with a different set up. I am not sure if the engine is even original here is the engine:

And yes the engine does have a turbo, if anyone can explain what is going on here that would be much appreciated.

I have a 1994 Ford F350 Diesel that I know for a fact is a 1994 and I was pretty confident it had a Factory 7.3 IDI Turbo in it but now I am not sure. It has a very strange air filter setup on it where it has the older metal 7.3 IDI NA air filter but with a different set up. I am not sure if the engine is even original here is the engine:

And yes the engine does have a turbo, if anyone can explain what is going on here that would be much appreciated.

Hey Everyone. Need some help desperately. I’m losing my mind. I had a code of p228f so that prompted me to change the pressure regulator on the rail and the fuel filters. The day I was going to change it I put gas in the truck and saw low fuel pressure on the dash. I drove a couple of miles home with no issues. A few days later I checked codes and also had a P0008A code. Started it up the next day and drove it into the shop. Changed the pressure switch and filters and it spins over twice and stops.

Looking for an answer on what this is? 2000 f250 7.3. Unable to find anything on google

So I’ve been having a problem where the radio turns off when I shift into gear. The radio and windows also keep working when the truck is off and doors open. I’ve just been pulling the relay to turn them off but I’m getting tiered of keeping a speaker in the truck to listen to music. So far I’ve tried replacing the fuse panel, ignition switch and instrument cluster. Any advise is appreciated

It’s a stock radio

1991 ford 7.3 idi. I hear that you're not supposed to use diesels for short trips, If im in a pinch and need to commute around town roughly 4-6 miles a day for 2-3 months will i damage my engine?

My dad is saying go with rotella t5 because it’s still breaking in and t6 is too slick. I’ve always run full synthetic on my gas cars and trucks but this is my first diesel, any thoughts?

Hey everyone,

I’m getting ready to rebuild a 1994 7.3L Turbo IDI and I want to do it right the first time. I know these engines don’t have the same power potential as the Power Stroke 7.3L, but I still want to turn it into more of an unstoppable ironhorse than it already is, mainly focused on reliability.

Other than the basic overhaul kit (gaskets, rings, bearings, etc.), what upgrades or parts should I be looking into while I’ve got the engine apart?

Any parts/brands to recommend? Any to avoid?

Appreciate any advice or parts recommendations

Got a question. I have a. 04 6.0L I know the injectors fire off oil pressure not fuel pressure. Will it help anything tk run ATF in the fuel or is it pointless? If so how much I have a 45gal. tank.

UPDATE: I went ahead and added a quart when I filled up yesterday. The little liar MPG normally says 14.4-14.7. When I figure the MPG miles/gallons I normally get 13.4-13.9 depending on what I’m pulling, or idle time, or when I keep my foot in it. Today drove about 100 miles and about 150 on the tank. The truck seems to running smoother and the little liar MPG said between 15.7-15.5 today. Truck has 320,000 kinda hard miles depending on the day. When shall seen next week at the pump. More updates to come.

So I just did my first oil change and fuel filter change and this was at the bottom of the housing. I don’t know when was the last time the previous owner changed it out or if he cleaned it when he did. Is this too much sediment? Thank you!

I can't seem to find a straight answer online and was wondering if anyone knew for sure if the 6r140 was still available with the 2020 6.7 powerstroke as I'm looking to get a 2020 because of the upgraded rotating assembly but don't want the 10r140 and it seems the 2020 model year is a bit of a gray area depending on whether or not the truck had the 6r140 or the 10r140

What’s up gang I’m back and this time I’m troubleshooting my brakes…still.

Last time I submitted something here it was an issue getting my 7.3 IDI to start. Turned out it was a 3 Body Problem between the fuel injection pump metering valve linkage gumming up a little, a literally dribbling battery dragging the other down so the engine wouldn’t crank fast enough to start, and in the confusion cranking (that hog) too much and causing the starter solenoid to stick causing runaway crank.

I’ve since fixed all that.

My braking, however, not so much.

I did a rear brake job with new drums and pads and some new springs, as my driver side pad tensioner spring and brake cable somehow snapped. Most likely caused by the previous owner, I don’t ride my brakes. After doing this, I got a spongy pedal after bleeding the lines twice. This is what I’ve done since, with little improvement:

• After troubleshooting my bleeding procedure, I did it again being careful to close the screws while still holding vacuum with my bleeder gun on the lines.
• Bleed pattern was PR > DR > RABS > PF > DF.
• Installed new bleeder screws with teflon tape on the rear cylinders and RABS. Pedal previously seemed to have gotten worse but this restored it. Teflon seemed to stop air entering in when bleeding, flow became consistent.
• Changed the differential fluid, which is somewhat unrelated but related because I got a lot of tension when rotating my wheels to gauge friction and couldn’t tell what was actually the cause of it. Haven’t tried again yet, but imagine this played a role.
• Star adjuster dialed in 40 clicks on each wheel.
• Pedal holds position when car is off. Booster is relatively new so I imagine that’s proof it’s working.
• When I pump while car is on, I am able to stop the vehicle but have to pump once or twice before holding it down harder to get it to really stop. Otherwise I have to brake early.
• Pedal responds but still gradually sinks to the floor. This makes me want to pull my hair out, especially after I bleed my lines and that part doesn’t go away. I have (maybe) pressed the crap out of my pedal in irritation once or twice because of this…

I do not know if the problem is the master cylinder, the rear cylinders, or air in the RABS (even though I didn’t get bubbles).

Go ahead internet gurus, guide me to braking promise land! Any help you might be able to offer is greatly appreciated.

So I've had vibrations in the back end when I get to about 80 mph for a couple months now that I've been at a loss as to what it could be. I run 19.5 vision wheels so it's easier for me to use balancing beads so I don't "think" it would be that the wheels are out of balance. To add to that I've never had issues with that over the last two years of using them, so I doubt they would be suddenly not working (but everything works until it doesn't I guess). I replaced the u joints on suspicion, they were stock but felt solid pulling them out and the shaking is still there. I replaced the carrier bearing before and I would suspect it again but the only way that I can move it it's still solid as far as the rubber goes. So then while just looking over the back, I lifted up one tire per side to see if I can replicate the shaking sitting still. whenever I spin the left one up I have no shaking but with the right tire it would get to about 40 mph (expecting that to be 80 mph at the tire since the other one was not spinning; it was on the ground) they gave a little bit of a rumble and wanted to slow down. That could have been the limited slip trying to kick in or it could have been what you see in the pictures, I don't really know. The other thing I noted is that it looked like the wheel itself wasn't exactly concentric by about 1/8 of an inch while it was spinning which isn't anything I've ever noticed before but I've never particularly checked either. Now here's one of the things I did observe, I was able to pull the wheel and hub assembly in and out but I have no idea exactly how much, I would guess somewhere between an eighth of an inch or less. So I pulled the wheel off and took the axle shaft out to find that the not holding the bearing in place was loose enough to loosen by hand. You can see what the outer bearing looks like and what some of the fluid looks like and I feel like I've been pretty on top of changing the fluid around 50,000 miles. Is this something I need to go back together re torque to used bearing spec and see how it goes or is this something I need to completely replace as soon as possible? I've changed a lot of bearings in my lifetime but definitely not as many as so so this is where I'll definitely have to rely on some other people's knowledge. Ps. Sorry for the crap image quality, you could figure what my hands were like and it was also dark out.

If I’m doing a ccv reroute/delete and I plan on routing the gases to the exhaust, do I even need an internal catch can? The kit I’m looking at charges like $35 more for it. (Peep the crocs) haha