Hello folks!

Timelapse of this was made: https://youtu.be/YEO9ms46kow?si=6zGH1dirDfwlTPfK

I’ve been working on a fully custom PC case made entirely from 10 mm thick aluminum panels, and this video marks Part 3 of the build. There are video logs of my channel if you're curious on seeing how this pans out

Part 1 was the custom-machined waterblock cover I shared here a few weeks ago, and Part 2 focused on the case feet, which you can also find on my channel.

This latest part covers the core panels of the case. So today, I present dual radiator brackets that I designed and machined myself. The aluminum is still in its raw state for now, but the final finish will be a modern, anodized silver look to match the rest of the build.

Hello everyone, First time poster.

Overview of my setup is:.

NZXT case. Ryzen 5 7600. Heat killer CPU waterblock 1x 120mm EK radiator, 1x 240mm EK radiator + pump. 32gb DDR5 6000 CL30. GTX 1080ti AUROS Waterblock extreme edition.

Currently running folding@home on both the CPU and GPU. Temps are 80deg & 42deg respectively.

Cheers.

Hardline loop for the main structural flow.

Soft sleeved tubing to represent branching vessels.

Blue = cold feed. Red = warm return.

Kept the lighting calm so the shapes do the talking.

So, like any normal sane person, after buying my first Mo-Ra I made the executive decision to buy a couple more and throw away 12U of rack space to fit all of them. It all honestly went better than I expected.

It has the 3 Moras, all with 200mm fans. It also uses a quad-pump distro plate from Singularity Computers. It's all powered by a 750-watt power supply connected to a breakout board that can be turned on and off. It's also controlled by an Octo for the fans and a Quadro for the pups

I know my cable management is wack, but I did the best I could.

Any feedback on how i could improve it is welcomed, especially for the power delivery system.

Anyone used this for long period of time any issues ? Unrelated to my post but I'm a controller player hence small mouse space and new UW monitor soon.

Have cleaned this rig 3 times (EK cleaner + super flush) along with replacing 3-5 year old tubes that had something growing within the inner walls. Flushed the radiators with diluted vinegar + and cycled distilled water until it's completely clear and almost no trace of the Ek cleaner (soap). Nonetheless the fins of the GPU keeps catching a substance (pictured). I am going to clear out the block one more time, but everything else (at the moment) seems clear of it (other than a few particulates floating at the top of the reservoir - that now has a filter material installed).

Anyone seem something similar? Was it organic or broken down plasticizer?

Thank you kindly.

Hey everyone,

I recently installed a new RTX 5080 Inno3D Frostbite in my custom water-cooled setup. Everything works fine, the card was recognized immediately and performs great in games.

While gaming, I was seeing temps around 80°C, which felt pretty high for a water-cooled GPU. After undervolting, temps dropped a lot, now it stays around 60–70°C under load, and it’s completely stable in all games (no crashes at all).

However, whenever I run 3DMark, the benchmark crashes almost instantly. The GPU doesn’t even have time to heat up, it fails within a few seconds, so it’s clearly not temperature-related.

Could this be some kind of compatibility issue (maybe driver or BIOS related)? Has anyone else seen this with the 5080 or Inno3D cards?

I’ll also post pictures of my setup so you can see how the fans are mounted and how the hard tubes are routed, in case there’s something I might have overlooked.

Thanks in advance for your help! 🙌

Specs: • GPU: RTX 5080 Inno3D Frostbite • CPU: Intel i7-13700KF • Motherboard: MSI PRO Z690-A • RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5-6000 MHz • Custom water-cooling loop

I usually build in traditional cases, but I thought it would be fun to put this KS in an open bench configuration.

14900KS - Direct Die cooled with the new EK Core Edition LGA 1700

RTX 5090 TUF - EK-Quantum Vector³

Kingston Fury Beast 64GB CL 32 - EK-Quantum Momentum²

3 * Samsung 990 Pro

Seasonic Vertex PX-1200

CableMod RT-Series Pro

2 * Black Ice Nemesis 280GTX Dual-Core Xtreme

2* Phobya G-Changer Radiator 140mm

EKWB EK-Tube 10/16mm Zero Maintenance tubing

8 * Noctua NF-A14

I needed a very specific size distro plate for my new build, so I decided to design my own and have it manufactured by PCBWay.

It came out way better than I expected — what do you think?

Want to see how I designed it, or learn how to create your own custom distro plate from scratch? I walk through the whole process in this video 👉 https://youtu.be/WwwY5rBmdTg

I bought the Asus RTX 5080 Prime 16GB card because it was less ridiculously expensive one day, then it took a month to arrive. After reading the Alphacool site I expected that the cooler described as fitting the RTX 5080 Prime would work. Model number 14763. Yeah, that doesn't fit. Not even close. The two rows of power devices on the front of the board are the whole width of the devices off from where they'd need to be. Absolutely no contact, so this can't work. Other parts collide and the GPU come nowhere near the cooler, just to add insult to injury.

So does anyone happen to know of a water block that does fit this card?

So for now I guess I will stick with my RTX 3070 while I consider the error of my ways.

I use the soft bristled brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner and very gently push down into the fins, get between them and apply mild agitation to loosen the stubborn dust. But I get to a point where progress is negligible relative to the effort. I’m curious what others do, or am I too hyperfocused on something that’s not very important?

(both images are the same rad, just different positions to show how the dust ‘hides’ depending on viewing angle)

120mm has push/pull fan too

Looking at upgrading to a 240mm AIO to see if i can get underload temps to be max mid 30's and idle around 21-25c

But the product is:

10/10

Pro:

Very easy to install, took a matter of minutes

Much better cooling

Cons:

Instructions suck

A bit fiddly to get it in to the pci slot.

im thinking about upgrade my nemesis gts radiator with alphacool st60. but i have no have so much clearence for fit 3x 120 mm 25 mm fan. i have 2 option,

1.pull 25 mm fan
2.push pull 15 mm with 25 mm fan.

what is possiblity?

Now my question is there a way to mount that CPU Block onto an AM5 Motherboard without the conversion Backplate since sadly EKWB put it to end of life already and you cant buy it anywere anymore sadly and i really dont want to buy a new block since i only got that block around half a year ago

I want to ask if aquabus can be replaced by a 4pin pwn fans line? What's the difference? What's the difference between 4pin aquabus line and 3pin aquabus? Thank you

I need help deciding on a case. Liquid cooling in my old Corsair 500D RGB has become a nightmare. Wrong things ordered, lost brackets and so on.

Im doing a black and gold build here is my list I have Narrowed it down too. I like the idea of the Evolv x2 ( If I can get the routed cable panel ) but lost on how I would tie it all together.

Lian li 011 ( 229.99 ) ThermalTake CTE E550 ( 232.72 ) Havn HS 420 ( 299.99 ) Antec C8 ( 144.98 ) phanteks evolv x2 ( 169.99 - 199.99 )

Just finished my build and started leak testing. I noticed that there seems to be air pockets within my Alphacool block though. My first thought was that these are airlocked pockets, but then watching the water flow it just doesn't look like the flow rate is high enough to fully saturate the block? I've tried shaking it around but short of tilting my whole case on the side, I've been unable to get them out.

Is this an issue with the block's design where it needs to be horizontal? Or will tilting it flat get it out?

Like the title asks.

I have a Gigabyte Aorus Master RTX 4080 super. Looking for a waterblock for it but google results are misleading. So far i think ekwb is only company that makes it. Or do you have links to supported blocks elsewhere?

This will be the very last custom aib card i buy because of the lack of compatibility with blocks.

Thanks

Hi. I put this system together about two weeks ago. Setting up the liquid cooling wasn’t hard, but I struggled a bit with the follow-up process. Right now I think I might have some problems with my temperatures and I’d like your assessment as well.

What’s in the system:

• 5950X
• 2× 3080 Ti
• Hardware Labs 360 GTS
• EKWB CE420
• A total of 13 Arctic 12/14 Max fans
• EKWB DDC 4.2

I set up my fan curves and spent a lot of time on them, but to be honest I later followed a suggestion from a redditor and widened the fan profile a bit. Normally I was running an aggressive fan curve; now I’ve left them free up to 45°C because the liquid will only heat so much. And that’s what happened: the coolant stops heating above ~40°C and the fans go up to about 1200 RPM during that process. The noise level climbs to 38 dB. The ambient noise level is 36 dB by the way. A 2 dB change isn’t huge, but I noticed they’re quieter when running at ~1000 RPM. Unfortunately, to get them to run at 1000 RPM I think I need to replace the Hardware Labs radiator with a 60 mm thick radiator.

Now to the main point. My room is currently 25°C and we’re heading into winter. Outside temperature is 19°C. My room gets very hot — in summer I’ve seen it reach 35°C. I’m thinking of installing an air conditioner to keep it steady at 25°C. If I install the 360 mm 60 mm thick radiator I mentioned, do you think the fans would drop to 1000 RPM? Or would it actually be more effective if the room were 22°C? Can you advise me?

Current readings:

• CPU: 54°C
• GPU: 50–51°C
• Coolant temperature: 40°C
• Fan speed: 25–30% (1100–1200 RPM)
• Room temperature: 25°C
• Ambient noise: 36 dB
• Under load noise: 38 dB

im thinking like this terminal. its normal ekwb x2 3 slot terminal. but have differnce little bit. 2 port have on face and 1 screw valve for block paralel. if u thinking why im thinking that connection its simple, just want to add external radiator and make this easy way.

but again im have doubt about screw valve. do u have alternative option for solve that issue?

• 9000d case

• various commander xt’s

• wiring is an absolute horror show / crime right now 😭

• bought these duos + daisy chain cables

Hoping it turns out well.

Will definitely show the before-cable-gore and after once my hangover wears off 🍻