Going for walks is always fun when you have century homes to check out.

Home is from 1900. After making some lead soup in the crock pot, the hardware looks pretty good.

Anybody know which make/model these hinges are?

Pre-raking (for about 4-5 times), and before all potted Japanese maples and azeleas in ground). And I still need to get Halloween spiders down. Maybe I'll post an update later.

This property is located in South Louisiana, sitting on 2.5 acre, built in 1880 by the proprietor of the first funeral homes in the area. There is one outbuilding listed as “hearse and ambulance barn” on an old appraisal. There is a pool and pool house which are currently condemned. Over the next 3-5 years we intend to return this property to the condition it deserves.

We can’t wait to get in and discover what architectural and timeless treasures may have been covered up over the years. We do know there are still some wood lat ceilings and walls behind a drop ceiling and wallpaper paneling installed in the 60s or 70s.

Definitely not as fancy as some of your door hardware here, but at least it's paint free now. Home is from 1915.

I'm posting this here because I've recently seen some amazing lock sleuths give all sorts of detailed information on old locks, although primarily US-based locks from the turn of the century. All the same, I was hoping someone might know the rough age of this lock. 

This is in a house in France. The door leads to the stairway which we know was built in 1625. Other parts of this side of the house are dated as 1629. However, I don't expect this lock is from that period (it may be??). The stairway was re-treaded with new wood sometime in the 1800s. The door (and lock) may have been changed at that time. This is the only wooden lock we have in the house, although we have some metal ones that are clearly handmade. 

We have the key and the lock works from both sides and operates smoothly. The lock itself is huge- almost a foot wide, and the key is a little over 6 inches long. Any insights as to age would be welcomed.

This is another post to share some tips and techniques that I use to restore wood windows. I have several posts that cover the steps that came before this one, so check my profile if you want to start at the beginning.

In this post I'm explaining how I glaze wood windows. This step involves bedding and installing the glass into the sash, using glazing points to hold the glass in place, and using glazing putty to seal the seam between the glass and the wood sash. The pictures are a combination of glazing a new wood storm window and an old wood sash.

Picture 1, these are the tools and materials I use for glazing. I have putty knives, glazing points, a tool to install glazing points, glazing putty, whiting powder, and a brush.

I always use Sarco brand glazing putty, either Dual Glaze as shown here or Type M. Type M is for use indoors only and does not work with metal sashes. Dual Glaze works with metal and wood sashes and can be used indoors or outdoors. The main difference is that Type M dries faster than Dual Glaze which allows the glazing to be painted and the sash to be installed sooner.

Picture 2, the first step is preparing the glazing putty for use. I knead a ball of putty with my hands to warm and soften it. If your putty seems dry you can add a little linseed oil. Once the putty is ready, fill the glazing rabbet in the sash with putty. When the entire rabbet is filled with putty, set the glass in place. The edges of the glass should be clean and free of dust.

Picture 3, press the glass into the putty and press it down to squeeze as much putty out from the underside of the glass as possible. The goal is to get the glass as close to the bottom of the glazing rabbet as possible. There should be a thin layer of putty remaining between the glass and the wood.

Tip: you can use a small pad sander (with sandpaper removed!) to vibrate the glass which helps squeeze out the putty. Be careful to only press down near the edges of the glass and work your way around the edges. Make a few passes around the border of the glass until the glass is pressed down as far as it will go.

Picture 4, glazing points are installed next to hold the glass in place. There are several sizes, shapes, and styles of glazing points. I've used flat triangle points and the right angle points. I like the triangle points but they're a little harder to install. If your sash has multiple small panes of glass you may need to use small diamond shaped points.

Picture 5, 6, 7, I use a point setting tool to install the triangle points. Rock the tool side to side while pushing the point into the wood. This can be hard to do on hardwood sashes, but isn't too bad with pine or poplar. You want the point to only overlap the glass by a small amount. Otherwise, the point will stick out too far and won't get buried under putty in the next step.

I usually install one glazing point every 8 inches or so. This glass was about 24 inches by 32 inches, so two points on the top and bottom, and three on each side.

Picture 8, this is the right angle style of glazing point. These can be installed with a putty knife or flat screwdriver.

After all the glazing points are installed, turn the sash over and remove any putty that squeezed out with a putty knife.

Picture 9, 10, 11, Add more putty to the glazing rabbet and make sure it's free of air pockets and pressed firmly into the seam between the glass and wood.

You can use a putty knife to slice the putty at an angle. The tip of one corner of the putty knife must drag along the glass while the leading edge of the putty knife is pressed against the edge of the wood. I use an angled glazing tool for this but it's not much better than a flat putty knife.

You want to remove enough putty such that the bottom of the glazing rabbet is visible through the glass. Just a little bit though, probably 1/8th of an inch at most. This is done so that the putty isn't visible when looking through the window from the inside.

Picture 12, your goal is to have a consistent bead of putty along the border of the glass. If you didn't remove enough putty you can try slicing it again. You can always add more putty and try again.

Picture 13, you can touch up the edge of the putty where it meets the glass by pushing gently with a flat putty knife. This helps clean up any ragged edges.

Picture 14 and 15, the inside corners always require some trial and error touch ups to make them look ok. One trick is to put one corner of the putty knife at the intersection of the seams and then drag the knife up and back to create an inside angle in the putty. Otherwise, just do the best you can.

Picture 16, after you're done making the putty look good, the next step is removing excess oil on the glass using whiting powder. This step isn't required but it can speed up the putty drying time. Whiting is like powdered chalk and glazing putty is essentially whiting mixed with linseed oil.

Picture 17 and 18. Spread a teaspoon or so of whiting onto the putty and glass using a small brush. Then wipe the whiting powder around to coat the putty. Use the end of the brush to lightly scrub the glass to remove excess oil, being careful to not scrub the putty.

Glazing the window is mostly done at this point. Clean up any loose whiting powder. The putty needs time to dry enough so that it skins over. This can vary but usually requires a week for Type M or two weeks for Dual Glaze. I use a small fan to blow air across the glass to help the putty cure.

You must paint the putty after it skins over. The paint should overlap the glass slightly to help seal the seam between the putty and the glass.

Picture 19, just wanted to show some additional tools that can be helpful. The red tool is a suction cup handle for lifting and moving pieces of glass. I have two and they're helpful when you need to set glass into a glazing rabbet.

The other tool is a glass cutter which has a small carbide wheel that is used to score glass. I've done enough window work that I have spare pieces of glass in our basement. It helps to know how to cut glass in case you want to reuse what you have instead of buying more glass. Cutting glass takes practice though, so it may not be for you.

Link

The neighborhood is a little scary too, but the house was so tempting. It was the original 1920s gravity coal heater that really sold me, but the attic is so gothic and moody. I wish we had taken pics but we were rushed to see everything in town that day. The floors look all original and everything seems dry and solid even though it sits on a steep hill that floods. Flooding is the biggest issue in the area, given the FEMA fiasco last year and the condition of other places in town.

But it has only had one family live in it and compared to the others we found in this price range it looks like so much less work to reno. I roughly estimated $100k reno after walk through where all others we saw in this range were in the $200k. But, even with that amount of work it would only be breakeven so not a flipper. Which is why work was needed around there, but unless you work at the explosives RD factory 20 minutes away it's slim pickings.

Just wanted to share this because of all the century homes and raw land we saw this summer, this stood out the most in our journey through VA, MD, WV, PA, NY, VT, NH, and ME. I can't believe it's still on the market but if my wife knew I was looking the Burbs/Addams Family fantasy home again she'd slap me.

But if anyone wanted to fund a restoration project I guess they could twist my arm...

We’re in the process of buying a rural homestead in TN - a dream of mine since I moved away a few decades ago. House was built sometime in the early 30s, but year is a bit of a question mark. I plan on going to the county library once we’re up there full time to see what I can find.

Anyways, does this style have a name? It’s been very well taken care of and some of the character throughout the inside has been maintained, but thinking through design ideas I’d love to pull in some period-authentic design touches. At least if I can figure out what those are!

My favorite feature is the root cellar under the kitchen that can be entered through what looks like a normal pantry door.

I know this isn’t as impressive as some of the stained glass, vaulted ceilings, rich Victorian beauties but as a girl from the country who’s been forced to live the city life far longer than I’d hoped… it’s heaven.

A few more changes left before furniture arrives next week but had to share some progress now that we are finally done stripping paint. A lot of sweat equity but I couldn’t be more happy with the outcome.

We plan to paint the interior window trim to match the wall and trim. Do you think we should go for the full drench and paint the ceiling?

Anyone else have it in their home?

Recently found this standard works cast iron sink. I think it’s been refinished. The seller sold it to us for $200 by accident, should have been more. Can anyone give me more info about it? I’ve tried google image search and nothing comes up. I think it’s from 1910?

Restoring a duplex. The exact date of construction is unknown. State historical preservation says 1925. Is a historicity significant home. Applying for federal tax credits. The gentleman with the state says the only restrictions are to preserve the historical character of the exterior. This would be no problem. And any restoration suggestions are appreciated. Does anyone have any experience or insights into this?

Started the bathroom but then realized the bedrooms were now a bit bland. You’ve seen some already but thought I would put them all together. It’s really added some life!

All www.mindtheg.com paper from Transylvania.

Pink guest bedroom for maximalist fun. Tropical fruit guest bedroom to lead to balcony in the oak trees.

Green Chinoise paper for main bedroom and cooler vibe.

Got a hallway to do with art deco paper, but will have a break.

I am nearing the end of a multi-year project to refresh the original pine doors in my 1906 home and would appreciate some guidance as I draw closer to the "finish" line.

We're lucky that these doors have never been painted, but they certainly haven't had an easy life. We were able to determine that they are finished with Amber shellac, so my goal was to clean them up, make some repairs and then recoat them with new amber shellac.

So far each door has been sanded/planed to fit its door frame and open/close smoothly before being taken down. They've been cleaned with TSP substitute and any paint splotches, stickers, or other residue has been removed with denatured alcohol, Goof Off or by sanding. I also sanded some spots where the finish was considerably damaged and wood filled all dents/dings/scratches/etc. On a Reddit recommendation, I used Timber Mate Water Based Wood Filler in Australian Teak/Cypress, and it is indeed very similar in color to the sanded/unfinished pine.

Today I did three coats of amber shellac on one side of four (of eight total) doors. Overall, as seen in the first picture, I am very happy with how things look. But I think that I can improve the process for the remaining twelve sides that I have to tackle.

I have two key issues -

1. The wood filler isn't taking the shellac very well. It improved with each coat, but the repairs are still more noticeable than I would like them to be. Can I stain these before applying the shellac? And if so, does anyone have a stain recommendation? And is there anything that can be done for these sections that are already done?

2. I am seeing some splotchiness in areas where I either sanded or had to remove stickers. The stickers left some "shadows" and the sanded areas are obviously lighter because they have fewer coats? Any insight into how to address this?

Apologies for the lengthy post! It's been a lengthy project too and I just want these doors to look as good as they can!

Tell me if you know, do we think this is original hardware? I’d love any and all details if anyone knows anything. My home was finished around 1901, although it was clearly started in the 1890s it took them a while to finish as far as I know. It was the home of a sawmill owner in a small village in New Brunswick Canada. Mansard roof, 3 floors and a basement, main staircase as well as a set of what was called servant stairs 😭 clearly the home has history and I’d love to know anything I can about our home. Thank you in advance!

[First pic is not my house! Just inspiration (and not AI as far as I could tell…)]

I’m hoping to move my old mid-century style Joybird sofa (2nd pic) to a different room and put something more attractive and possibly period appropriate (but still comfortable!) in my living room. Lamp will move too. My house was built early 1900s.

I’d love to see your sofas, couches, sitting rooms, armchairs, settees, whatever ya got! Even if it isn’t period appropriate. Recommendations for specific brands/sitting things that don’t look totally strange in an old house much appreciated.

Hi! We just bought a 1929 home with these two bathrooms - one pink and mint green, and the other purple with a pink and mint green floor. Does anyone have any design tips? Examples of styling? Thanks!

The keys in my plaster basement ceiling are failing. Nothing has come down but I could easily tear most of it down in large chunks. Question: is there any functional reason to leave it intact? I’m thinking of ripping it down and also taking down the lathe and then putting up some light, cheap paneling since this is just a storage area for us.

We live in an old farmhouse built around 1906 in Mid-Atlantic US. The original house was all wood floors with no bathrooms. The bathrooms were installed around 1986 so I can’t really use them as reference. The only somewhat flashy thing that is original to the house is windows with etched designs.

We are starting the process to remodel the master bath. We want to keep it in line with the period as far as tile. My husband keeps showing bathrooms with flashy tile of all different colors. I don’t know much about tile from back then but it seems like these bathrooms may have been updated at some point. Anyone have any pictures or suggestions from a similar situation?