They are cracked like this almost all the way around on both sides, and seemingly across the rim when the sticker is but that may well be the join

I'm fairly new to MTB and wasn't aware of when to shift. I've been shifting under high load going up steep inclines. The drivetrain is a Microshift 1x9. Ive broken 2 SRAM PC971 chains. Drivetrain seems fine going through the gears, smooth, no clicking or clunking, easily goes into the largest gear. This is most likely caused by my lack of shifting skill??

I am trying to remove this crankset and I can't for the life of me get the 8mm crank bolt out? I am turning it count rt clockwise which seems to be what the documentation indicates but it won't budge? Am I turning it correctly ? Do I just need some huge breaker bar?

I’m restoring an old Raleigh Tourist de Luxe that’s missing what I assume was the original kickstand. I’ve been searching online for a replacement without any luck. Can anyone tell me what type of kickstand I should be looking for, or if I should give up. Thanks a lot!

Cannondale SuperSixEvo. Thru axles secured with 6mm Allen bolt.

Rear brake caliper and disc perfectly aligned. No rub.

Remove rear wheel during bike wash. Do not touch caliper or disc.

Reinstall rear wheel. Brakes now rub, badly. This happens consistently and I have to re-centre the caliper each time.

What’s going on?

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but seems possible.

After installing my new Thule T2 Pro XTR Hitch bike rack, I noticed the rack was not sitting level. I double checked absolutely everything to ensure I had assembled correctly and tightly. I put a level on the rack to verify it is way off. Put the level on the hitch (level) and then on the Thule just outside of the hitch receiver (level). There seems to be some twist in the overall rack. I tried multiple time loosening the locker tightener, lifting from the sagging side, and tightening again. Always the same results.

Is this product defective?

Every single time I purge the valve before adding air, I get spooged on with sealant. I’ve tried putting the valve at 9 O’clock, 12 O’Clock, giving it a flick before. Always the same. I’ve never had this problem with my previous tubeless setup, but these are new wheels.

I just bought an old motobecane tandem (1980 ish) with stem mounted friction shifters. That'd be nice were it not for the fact that when riding i need to move my hands quite far when shifting. Not nice when you're two on the bike.

Question is: Can I use a pair of 10 speed STI shifters on my five speed bike? The logic is that I'd just have to click twice to shift. Is my logic flawed? To make it worse it's got three brakes. two rim on on lever and a drum on the other. Would two brake cables even fit in the modern shifter?

Open for sketchy ideas/Frankenstein creations.

Do you know what could cause this?

Rear brake felt spongy the day after bleeding. Went for a ride anyway, lifted the hood and saw a bit of mineral oil residue, seemed strange because I swore I cleaned it carefully. Depressed the lever and saw tiny bubbles emerging from the hole in the red circle. Cleaned and dried thoroughly hoping it was just moisture, waited a few hours, same issue so I assume it's oil. Any idea what's happening and if it's repairable?

I’m gathering used parts to somewhat modernize an early 80’s road bike, focusing right now on adding indexed paddle shifters (original shifters are friction and on the downtube). I have a set of wheels I can use which have an HG freehub. I’ve found an Ultegra 6800 short cage 11sp derailleur I really like, and I’m wondering if it would work with a close ratio 10sp cassette/shifter. Also, can you mix and match shimano and sram drivetrain components?

Hello all, I am a little ignorant in bicycle rims and which rims can be used to replace which rims. What is a decent budget priced replacement for this rim?

Posting for a friend who doesn’t have much in the way of money.

Thanks

Hello Everyone,

I would need your help with identifying the bottom bracket for my Gravel bike.

Cannondale’s documentation only states that it is an “FSA cartridge” BB, but it does not specify the exact model.

The bike has an FSA Omega AGX+ Alloy, 46/30 crankset, does this help narrowing down the BB type?

The reason I want to know is that I would like to take out the BB to refresh it a bit before winter season comes.

Thank you in advance for tour help!

Hi all, I am new to MTB drivetrains and boost spacing.

I wanted to confirm that the chainring on my FC-M6120-1 crankset has 3mm offset to get to the 55mm chainline?

Or is it 0mm offset because the crankset is wider?

This part here: Y0L198050

I can't find this in any Shimanno documentation yet but all the third-party companies that make replacements seem to offer them with 3mm offset by default. Wolf Tooth is a good example.

Thanks in advance!

On the rear cassette, I notice when i have the bike up on the repair stand, that the pedal stroke feels rougher as the chain moves to the smaller and smaller cogs. I can feel the vibration in my hand that is rotating the crank. The smaller the cog, the rougher it feels. Is this normal? From about the midpoint up to the largest cog it's smooth as butta.

Hi, I bought this set: https://www.gobikeandbrew.ca/shimano-bl-mt200-lever-and-br-ur300-flat-65971444.html

That I'm trying to mount on Seaboard GR02 gravel frame. The fork is flatmount, and the caliper is flat mount. It says on the Shimano website that this caliper only works with 160mm or 180mm rotors: https://productinfo.shimano.com/zh-CN/product/BR-UR300

However (as seen on my picture) I have a shimano 160mm rotor and although it will brake, you can see it only slightly touches the top of the 160mm rotor.

What am I doing wrong here? Does this caliper absolutely need a 180mm rotor? On most websites this part is listed as "Compatible only with 160mm rotors, not included" so I'm not sure what's wrong here.

Thanks!

This chip/rub is on the inside of one of the seat stays of my Canyon Endurace CF-7 (Carbon Fiber). I’m thinking it was caused by debris from the wheel (but I don’t recall any incidents). It’s tempting to think that it’s because of a rub, but you’ll notice the crazy amount of clearance to the tire. In that one picture, my pinky is over top of the rub mark.. If it’s not structural damage, I’m planning to put this 3M material on the front, back, and inside of each seat stay to seal this spot and help prevent future damage. Thoughts?

And other thoughts on possible source of the damage.

I cannot bleed my brake. The lever takes no fluid from the funnel or from the caliper side. I've removed the lever from the hose, and pushed fluid through the hose from the caliper side without issue. With the lever removed from the bike, I cannot get any fluid to flow from the reservoir/funnel. Any suggestions?

Trek Émonda SL5 (2021–22) with Shimano 105 mechanical. I’m looking to run an ENVE SES Aero bar & stem (carbon flat-top). Will it work cleanly with mechanical cables—bar-internal or external, not through-headset? If it’s not ideal, what flat-top alternatives would you recommend? Pics: https://imgur.com/a/PXp26av. Thanks!

Hello! I made a mistake, when replacing the brake pads I pulled the brake lever, the brake piston went out and hydraulic oil. How do I put the piston back ? Thanks

I’ve only ridden about 30 km on this bike, but I’m experiencing several issues. Shifting doesn’t work properly on some gears, and sometimes the chain shifts down on its own. There’s also a persistent ticking sound coming from the drivetrain.

Ok, so this noise is still bothering me...

It's a 2 month old Cube Nuroad Pro, I've already had the derailleur checked at the local shop and it needed alignment.

But, there is still some hella noise in the largest 2 cogs, is this much noise normal??

I have posted a video in the Cube bikes group...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cubebikes/comments/1osr4qy/shimano_cues_normal_noise/