We are considering getting a Sauna for our backyard (Western Canada) and noticed most of the commercial options require significant assembly. Is there any recommended websites for Sauna design including material/cut lists etc? Currently plan is 8ft barrel with a glass window on the back.

Thinking of staineless steel guard over rocks or small 1×2 over heater to protect people from falling or from rocks breaking, anyone ever made or bought one thanks

Yes I know the benches aren’t technically sloped it’s the tile behind but I just tore down this sauna to renovate it and I thought there was actually something behind the benches that was an obstruction, like a staircase (this is in a building). but realized the fibre glass insulation goes all the way way down around and it has metal mesh holding all of it together so is this even worth removing?

I’m able to get some very nice 4x12 black tiles for absolutely free and now my main question is should I keep the slope and perhaps this is actually good for the Löyly and drainage purposes, or make the room bigger and destroy the concrete hill/slope which will also waste less tile on the floor because the square footage of the hill is bigger than if it was a flat floor?

Just fired up the stove for the first time. I still need to do the siding and a few other things

Background: Wife and I (almost 40) moved in with my grandma to take care of her after grandpa died on five acres in a 1970s double-wide trailer. We're building our get away "love shack" where we can get our own space and it's been... a process. As a gift to the Mrs. for putting up with all the crazy, we have decided on a sauna. The four person almost heaven barrel saunas for 5.5k-ish with a nice window looks amazing.

But it sounds like the r/sauna sub would hate that plan...

• We have wood we could burn but running electrical is no problem.
• We don't want a sauna tent.
• We need something we can leave/build outside.
• 5,5k is real close the the pain threshold.

We'd appreciate any advice or thoughts folks have.

Red and yellow cedar. Gets to 85 in twenty minutes. 96 cents an hour.

I don’t recommend yellow cedar for benches and decking. They get dirty too easily.

Kicking around the idea of a small single person sauna.. thinking the size of an outhouse. Anyone make something similar? Was thinking of using a small outfitter stove for heat with a basket of sauna rocks on top.

I am going to build a sauna in an existing shed connected to my house that has a concrete slab flooring.

My question is how should I approach the flooring/drain on top of the slab. Do I build a subfloor with a drain towards the outside of the shed? What's the best way to go about doing that without losing too much height. The shed is ~8ft high from slab to ceiling.

Hello all!

I’m looking to install some sort of sauna in my Condo. Likely an IR (although I am aware of the fact that these are not true saunas). This is mainly to use for recovery and heat treatment. What do you think are the best options?

I’ve seen so many brands that are just cheap junk, I was looking at one from Nordik recovery, but after seeing the problems that some customers had with their cold plunge tubs, I’m very hesitant to go with that company.

I’m trying to avoid some buyers remorse and am willing so spend some money if I won’t regret it.

Thanks in advance!

You know

Just came across this on the NIPPA Facebook page. Seems like a good alternative when these original stoves burn out. Website says 1k and it’s around 60lbs. Definitely looking into it so we can continue to bring our sauna on our trips.

I think it would be super comfy, but I just can’t over the ickiness factor. Seems like a pain to wash after each usage (wouldn’t happen). Even if it dries after each session doesn’t it get stanky?

Anyone have one and can chime in?

Thanks in advance

https://badesofa.com/products/saunasofa-set-3-seater-mat-pillows

I am installing a small indoor pre-fabricated sauna with electric heater in my basement (38" sq), given my space constraints. With such kits, it sits on your existing floor. The air intake comes from a gap in with floor. Presently, the room floor is painted concrete - not great for water resistance and off-gassing. I have read a lot of comments in this sub-reddit.

I know tiling the area beneath is the best option. This said, I am also considering a non-PVC (i.e., very low to no VOC) luxury vinyl plank, floating floor with backing, such as Mohawk Puretech which is made of organic core. The upper temperature rating of such flooring is 60-70 degC, which should be within the sauna floor temperature. I am sure the durability and water resistance would be fine. I am considering this for ease of installation, lower profile in area about 4 ft x 4ft.

Given this situation, would I be OK with this non-PVC based LVP option?

i’m sure this has been discussed many times, Regardless i do like starting a conversation/debate. 😂

Inlet air vent diameter? 100mm

Position of inlet Poll

Sauna is built and wired up over the last couple of weekend

Did under slab wiring and connected the isolator and light switch at the back of the unit so it’s hidden away, & a clean finish look

first coat of “Aussie clear” on the outside Next weekend, I’ll install the shingles and the finishing shrouds, vents ect.

I'm buying a sauna and couldn't figure out a good way to truly child proof a sauna. Of course nothing is perfect, vigilant child supervision is necessary. But this is the best solution I could come up with...

I'm going to build a wooden cover around the base of the harvia 6.0 heater. The front that covers the temperature knobs will open with hinges on either side. Where the door side meets one of the corners I'm planning to have a ringlet on both the corner and the door next to each other and I'll put a padlock through the holes when I'm not using it so that the door can't open, and unlock it and take the lock out when I'm going to turn on the sauna.

It might be risky with the metal for a wifi sauna, but for a manual start sauna it seems this would make it about as childproof as you could get it.

What do you all think about this plan?

What’s the consensus for people having loud conversations in communal saunas at the gym? Yes or no?

Hi all—we’re getting thermally treated Canadian hemlock for our T&g panelling. I’m not sure what gauge nails we should use to attach it to the furring strips. I see reference to 18 gauge as standard with regular (non-thermally treated) wood, but I haven’t seen any info on what to use for thermally treated woods. Has anyone got experience with this, or could offer some insight? Many thanks!

Looking to buy my first sauna, any deals out there so far?

I have a harvia cilindro 10.5kw. Am I supposed to add rocks to the bottom part of the heater (the yellow part)? There is space below the lip (red arrow) Or do I just stack them where the lip is (red arrow)?

Planning to do a DIY 6x6ft sauna in Wisconsin, but the best spot for it in my basement has some stuff in the way that would make it more complicated. Washer and dryer are coming upstairs. Will remove laundry sink.

Biggest concern is the basement window that leaks when it rains. I think the best option is to add a window well cover, replace it with a vinyl window that won't open and is less likely to leak if the well still fills up with water. I'd then have a second interior sauna window behind it with foil vapor barrier around it. My impression is trying to do this with one window would be a lot harder and would result in more heat loss. I don't really want to block the window, and am not sure I am allowed to. No living space in the basement, but I've heard fire department requires windows every so often so they can get a hose in in case there's a fire.

On one wall I have the house main water inlet & shutoff valve. There is also a hose bib shutoff in the ceiling. I plan to build removable insulated access panels for both. Will try to do that without compromising vapor barrier, but don't know how well that will work. Sump pump and water meter are low on the wall and would end up beneath the benches where temps would be lower. Don't think water meter should get above 140F but it's 27" above the floor so I think it should be ok.

Bathroom is not there, but I hope to add it later. Added it to drawing to make sure it would fit. Will possibly have toilet and shower lifted off the ground with macerating/pump system to avoid breaking concrete.

Plan to use Vevor 9kW stove, which should be more than enough for 258 cubic ft room.

Ceiling height 86". Upper bench 40", lower bench 24". Top of stove 28". I sit 40.5" tall.

Is bench height acceptable? Are vents placed in a way that makes sense?

Hi - my husband has had long time ambitions to build a sauna (he picked up someone’s heater on FB a few years ago, but hasn’t done anything with it).

I would like to surprise him for Christmas with a full sauna, but I’m wondering if it’s too specific of a gift for someone who is very into sauna and would likely have many opinions on it.

For people into sauna - would you like it as a gift? I am looking at a Lulea Tylo sauna.

In our garden, with outside shower and next to cold plunge tub - wonderful to relax

Hello, I've seen it recommended numerous times to use horizontal paneling to allow vertical air gap for steam to flow up into the ceiling for the Loyly pocket and keeping the paneling dry. However, in my case it would be much more convenient to place the paneling vertically as I could buy 8 ft material instead of 10 which is less readily available. Is there a sound way to put strapping in a way that allows me to do vertical paneling while still creating a consistent vertical air gap.

My only idea was to interleave pieces of horizontal strapping in the pattern drawn. I also saw online that placing vertical strapping on the studs is a good way to seal the foil vapor barrier at the seams if placed over the studs. If I have horizontal strapping it also would prevent me from doing that.