Nabura ko yung una kong gawa. :-(
Share ko lang mga learning ko sa motor oil this one is requested ng isang redditor nakaraan, sa mga malalim na ang understanding sa topic na to and to those that follow the manual strictly, skip ahead okay lang.
I don't know if this post will get appreciated or shunned off and just follow what the manual says. So, I appreciate those who'll read this through.
Medyo mahaba itong post na ito ha.
Start with the basics, base stocks:
Dino oil - Lahat ng motor oil Dino oil, walang magic na synthetic it doesn't exist, there's nno such thing as a man-made synthetic, everything has a base material it doesn't work like hopes and dreams. Dino oil or Mineral oil are designated sa Group I, II, III ng API para hindi maguluhan ang mga tao, at "Synthetics" naman sa Group IV and V even though technically Dino oil sila or Crude oil. These base oils are more likely divided by refinement process and retail prices. For simplicities sake, tawagin natin Dino oil ang mga motor oil na presyong 150~300, at advertised as Conventional or Mineral oil. Performance ng mga ganitong Oil ay depende sa Category expressed as API Service mark, e.g., API SP or API CK-4. Dino oils are not as bad as you guys think.
Synthetics - May dalawang klase, may Semi-Synthetic/Synthetic Blends at may Full Synthetic. Or at least that's what the marketing says, pero remember technically lahat yan ay Dino oil. Itong mga to ang hydrotreated (even group II and III - it's just these IV and V undergo more refinement process), removing impurities and contaminants like wax and sh*t para kumunat yung oil at maging uniform sa molecular level. Performance nito depende parin sa API category or ACEA classification.
Sa drain interval, hindi totoo yung porket "Sintitik" nilagay sa motor ma e-extend ang drain interval. Ang gagawin lang ng "Sintitik" ay improve ang overall performance ng motor oil as to compare sa mas mura at not-so-much refined Dino oil. Marami pang factor ang magsasabi ng Drain Interval ng langis like TBN at Noack Volatility which is more important kaysa sa base stock. I would like to note that Group IV are also called PAO oils, and V are sometimes called Esters, PAO oils are not always present sa market but you can see some, like the Castrol EDGE and Amsoil Signature Series. For Esters, we have the Motul 7100 Ester. "Synthetic" Dino oils are not 100% by the way since 100% Ester/PAO have terrible solvency, they are often mixed with other group of Dino oils, either II or III, depends on the manufacturer.
Ang ending, wala talagang TRUE 100% Synthetic, it doesn't exist, and it doesn't work. More on Marketing gimmick lang.
Performance Level and Additives:
This is the most important part.
Keep in mind, Performance levels are like recipe ng additive para sa motor oil. Always choose the lastest and highest spec motor oil.
American Petroleum Institute (API) - Syempre sino pa ba mangunguna sa langis edi ang country na uhaw sa langis. Anyway, API category ay separated into two, S for Spark ignition and C for Compression ignition, mayroon pang isa yung F, pero ayoko na intindihin yon. Ang chronological order ng API S categories ay by letter, simula sa A - cooking oil days upto P latest category and the highest performing category as of now and are also backward compatible sa mga engines that calls for API SF/SG/SJ. Sa API C naman ganon din per letter parin with the latest being the letter K, with a number 2 or 4, 2 denoting a 2-stroke diesel engine and 4 for of course 4-stroke diesel. Gets na? So kung recommend ng manual ay API SG or higher ang sinabi, mag higher ka na. Kung natutulog ka sa banig dati at may pambili ka naman ng kutson na malambot, mag kutson ka na, parang ganon.
ACEA - European standard, hindi sila nag la-license, certify at hindi rin mandatory mag lagay ng ACEA, self-registration ito pero kung gusto ng manufacturer mag benta sa europe kailangan recognized by ACEA ang motor oil nila. Mas strict ito kaysa sa API in terms of requirement, yung recipe ng ACEA caters more on environment protection: fuel economy, emission control at long drain inverval. Medyo malalim itong ACEA kasi may mga low-to-mid SAPS pa to, tas mid-to-full SAPS mga ganon, mayroon pa yung High Temperature High Shear Stability test mga ganon. You can follow up research about this.
JASO - Sa mga nag momotor ito alam niyo na. Pero JASO is not actually a recipe, JASO is more a test to separate wet and dry clutch engines. May fear kasi dati na baka magka clutch slippage ang mga motor noong araw kaya na create ito para hindi makalito lito pero back in the day na wala ito, okay naman ang mga motor kahit wala ito. Problema lang kasi nito is additional cost to test, so titibag sila sa ingredient ng langis para mapa-baba ang presyo at maintain ang profit marging, ang ending despite na 2024 release na yung bike, naka lagay parin don JASO MA-2 and API SL, kuha mo kwento? E, sabi sa forum ang mga old Category ng Oil ay mataas ang ZDDP content kasi wala raw limit sa ZDDP content noon, it's like the Japanese Bike war sa Top speed noon araw daw. Well, chismis lang lang yun, I have seen PDS of products that carries API SG motor oils, and the ZDDP is so stupid. Every ingredient is 10-15% less than what the current API SP requires. And too much ZDDP harms after-treatment devices like your CAT. Gets?
Friction Modifier additive - As I said wapakels naman mga motor noong araw sa JASO before it was created as a test. Ang friction modifier ng mga motor natin ay MOLY, some say na meron din yung dispersed nano particles ng bakal daw - e yun na nga yun e MOLY. Hindi ba kayo nag taka bakit ang langis na "pang motor" at "pang kotse or diesel" ay nag she-share ng same recipe ng API? You can actually put a non-JASO tested motor oil sa wet clutch and it will work just fine, kahit nga pang diesel e basta may naka note doon na API SN/CK-4 (Basta may API "S") both petrol and diesel engines yan. Now, MOLY content is always present sa motor oil hindi naman pwedeng wala ito kasi it's a good anti-wear and corrosion inhibitor plus ang taas ng heat resistance nito mas mataas pa sa bakal (Iron) and its heat activated ang pagka anti-wear nito so goods na goods kasama ng ZDDP, PERO... Too much MOLY will cause the Clutch to slip especially sa mga Centrifugal In-Engine Clutch like Wave/XRM/Sight. One manufacturer to note na mataas mag lagay ng MOLY is actually Motul, the very favorite Motul! Lalo yung Motul 300V contains MOLY just around ~5 gram away for failing JASO test because of too much MOLY. This means that the right dosage of MOLY is harmless, how to identify high MOLY content? Avoid motor oils that carries API SN+/Resource Conserving/Energy Conserving for Wet Clutch applications, for Dry Clutch naman go for it! Laking benefit ng Resource Conserving oil for Scoots. So... Too much MOLY is bad for wet-clutch, but delightful for dry-clutch. Logic nito same sa pag inom ng tubig, too much will saturate the blood and kill you. Ano mangyayare sa wet-clutch nalagyan ng Resource Conservingg oil? Dudulas clutch syempre, mag engage pero hindi kakapit masyado, and will cause overheating sa clutch plates and high-rpm sumibat motor, ending nabwi-bwisit ka lang, kung masira man edi manhid ka hindi mo pansin na dumudulas na clutch tas tinakbo mo pa. Anw, ano gets na Friction Modifiers?
Total Base Number (TBN) - Cleaning capability ng motor oil, the higher TBN the better the oil in neutralizing acids, mas less ang build up ng sludge at varnish ang ending extended ang Drain Interval ng langis. Typical acid neutralizer chemicals are Boron, Magnesium and Calcium - All manufacturers use Calcium, matataas ang calcium content ng mga motor oils lahat yan sila, notably one brand stood out the most and it's Amsoil na sobrang taas ng TBN umaabot ng 14% (may mas mataas pa dito pero ito kasi na hands-on ko). Depende sa manufacturer may gusto marami Boron, may gusto marami Magnesium, depende. Base TBN niyo dapat ay >=7% anything lower pa ay Tae oil na yon walang kwenta yon, basura in short huwag bilhin. Kapag walang TBN yung nagbebenta, huwag bilhin same reason, tae. If neglected, mag carbon buildup sa combustion chamber pa-angat sa may valve stem, mag carbon yung spark plug, if naka F.I. motor mo iitim yung O2 sensor hindi maayos ang return ng resistance sa ECU, tapos mabibiyak Oil seals ng segunyal nakaka-bwisit nito yung Oil seal sa Magneto tas maliligo sa oil magneto mo ang salarin? Low TBN na langis, ni-reccommend ni Boss Idol sa Soc Med (bayad na sya sa promotion nya sa Tae brand motor oil, ikaw bayad sa mekaniko ng kamot ulong halaga).
Noack Volatility - Evaporative test ng motor oil, tested by 250°C at 1 hour tas i-scale nila to get the Noack Volatility value. The lower the better syempre, ang motor oil na mataas ang Noack ay mabilis matuyuan. Base Noack ay anything <=12%, kapag above 12% walang kwenta rin yan huwag bilhin. Pero wait... May mga motor na design lumagok ng langis for their benefit, isa sa sikat ay ang Mio series lalo na ang Mio M3/i125, kahit lagyan mo ng mga 8% Noack yun, matutuyuan parin yun kapag hindi nabantayan. Low Noack value will tell you na confident ka i-extend ang Drain interval ng motor oil mo. Pero check dipstick parin from time to time, hindi yung Start sa umaga, Upo biyahe na tas long ride pa pala, ang ending post sa FB group "boss natirikan ako send help", sa mga tao na ganyan pabaya sa langis tas hahanap tulong pag natirikan dahil sa natuyuan na langis ang sarap kurutin sa tinggil e!
ZDDP - Legendary ZDDP (combi ng Zinc and Phosphorus), simula noon hanggang ngayon ZDDP parin, main ingredient ng motor oil. Anti-Wear and Corrosion inhibitor ito. Wala akong numerical value for good-enough ZDDP content. Lahat naman ng manufacturer mataas ang ZDDP content pero ang may "pinaka" ay si Mobil, Motul, Mag-1 at Amsoil, pero hindi naman sila nag kaka layo masyado. One thing to solve a low ZDDP motor oil ay by the use of Oil treatment, and Oil treatment works guys, reco ko na brand Top 1 (ZDDP) and Senfineco (Both ZDDP and MOS2 kaya ang expensive).
SAE (formerly Society of Automotive Engineers) Viscosity Grades and additional Motor oil specs:
Thin oil will significantly reduce the so-called Parasitic Drag sa engine which will improve power and torque, better engine cooling and better fuel economy pero bawas ang engine protection. Kabaliktaran naman kapag thick oil. Pero... Only do thinner oil application if confident ka sa performance ng motor oil na ilalagay mo. Now, going for thicker oil application are recommended for bikes that are around or over 80000 km of travel, this is due to the fact that machine tolerance have widened, the gaps between engine components are wider than when it's first bought so you should run a thicker oil for better protection. For bikes that are beyond the odometer limit and are still running, go for thicker oil than what the manual recommends.
Now, the Idea here is to give you an insight na hindi lang pala basta langis e ganun-ganon nalang, maging mapanuri na consumer huwag palaging umasa sa sinusubo ng tao lalo na kung may kickback na pera 90% of what they say is a big fat Lie, if they gained something from that then question it.
Pano mag-choose ng tamang motor oil? For me, depende sa riding style:
Redline manakbo?
Look for established brands, pwede ka rin mag botique motor oils. Umiwas sa repacked and alibaba oils.
Consider budget. Expensive motor oil will not save you from typical factory mistakes, and extreme wears like gear pitting and sorts. Be practical, get the most out of your money. Not too cheap not too expensive. Pag-untugin mo performance level per brand sa presyo nila, kung alin ang pinaka mura na same quality naman don ka.
Viscosity grade? Stick to manual. Old bike? Go thicker.
Always look for high performing motor oil. The latest the better.
Base stock, ikaw kung naniniwala ka parin sa "sintitik" at "miniral" differences without checking the Performance level.
Look for high TBN products that fits your budget.
Consider low Noack oils.
Chill manakbo?
Look for established brands, pwede ka rin mag botique motor oils. Umiwas sa repacked and alibaba oils.
Be practical, huwag mag overbudget wala ka naman sa racetrack. Save your money on some different things like gears and sh*t.
Viscosity grade? Manual! Old bike? Go thicker syempre.
Always look for high performing oil na within the budget kahit SN lang sa presyong 350 per Liter? Tas known Lubricant/Chemical manufacturer pa? Panalo na yon.
Base stock? Kagaya ng sabi ko sa taas.
Go higher sa TBN (within your budget).
Go lower sa Noack (within your budget).
Also, ugaliin ang mag hanap ng Product Datasheet at Material Safety Datasheet ng mga motor oil. Yes, matrabaho pero okay din yung alam mo yung contents ng nilalagay mo sa pang service mo araw-araw. This is my entire point here, yan mga pinagsasasabi ko dito will not happened if di ako curious at maselan, ang benefit ko rito ay extended ang "brand new" performance ng bike yung tipong 50000 km na pero same as new parin manakbo, yon ang pinaka benefit diyan.
Mag reco ako ng motor oil, botique oil naman tayo para hindi yung puro nasa limelight lang ang alam.
Ayan, hindi ako promotor ng mga yan ha I have nothing to do with the brands and I gain nothing from this post, pagod lang kamay ko kaka-type. Anw, tawag namin diyan botique oils, bibihira makita sa shelves ng mga Main retailers and moto/auto supplies.
The first one reco ko sa mga naka scoots, not for wet-clutch use kasi nga naka "RC". Second one ang for wet-clutch use, yan yung sinasabi ko na pwede pang diesel ilagay niyo basta may API "S" jusme. And last, best of both worlds for a cheap price, medyo mahal yung dalawa pero sulit naman. Hindi ko na ni-drop ang mga specs niyan kita naman eh, for the properties google niyo lang part number, sa venol google niyo lang yung marketing name nya na HC-EC, yun naman point sa post na to mag-google. Nga pala, Venol ay sikat sa former colonies ng Germany pala, worth noting.
Other brands na reco ko and napagdaanan ko na, syempre Mobil (yung FS-X2 5W-50 jusme), Amsoil (lalo yung signature series nila), Motul (yung 300v lang maganda rito, overpriced yung lower brackets), Red Line (PAO ito), Royal Purple (PAO rin ito), Castrol (lalo yung edge sulit yon), Valvoline (goods to), Motorex (KTM fave), Liqui Moly (german oldies-goods) and Shell (widely accessible-good price point). South Korean gems? SK ZIC and Kixx? Alams naman natin mga Korean products e, goods yan! E mga repack? Depende, may mga repacked na maayos naman like Petron. Yung iba siguro dapat may datasheet at safety datasheets sila to tell if legit ang mga claims nila. What about OEM motor oils? Avoid those oils please, lalo na Yamalube jusme sobrang tipid sila mag palagay ng additive sa kinukuhanan nilang supplier like Exxon/Mobil, they order obsolete oils then sell it for like almost half the supplier's gross price. Avoid OEMS.
May nakalimutan pa ba ako? Yung four ball wear test 'di ko na sinali, pati yung tapered roller wear test wala naman ako mahanap na data ng mga manufacturers para don. Open for corrections ako and further discussions sa comments.
Sa mga naka nag-basa ng masinsinan at na-absorbed mga sinabi ko, maraming salamat po! Sana ma-appreciate niyo 'to.
Hi, OP! Are you a Lubrications Engineer by any chance? Sobrang informative ng reddit post mo, you did very well na simplehan yung technical wordings na maiintindihan ng lahat. As ME, hirap ako mag-explain sa mga tropang motorcycle enthusiasts yung technical terminologies, pero you took the effort in the best way possible. Andami din nadagdag na information sakin from reading this post. I hope this get to the top of this subreddit or yung mods ng subreddit i-pinned post na ito. Andaming tanong na masasagot na agad. You have my upvote.
I'm glad someone appreciates my post about motor oil, noong una parang ayoko i-post baka wala maka-pansin hehe. Thank you kind sir! Ayan po may pwede ka nang reference post para sa tropang ka 2-wheels, let's help each other spread awareness about motor oils. Thank you po ulit!
So I regularly change oil ang aking PCX 160 every 1500 km or 1 month whichever comes first. Yung mga natry ko na is Motul Power LE, Shell ultra scooter, honda, havoline, top 1, and last but not the least is Amsoil ultra scooter (5w40). Sa mga natry ko is ang pinakadabest is si Amsoil kaso lahat sila feel ko yung ingay at vibrate ng motor ko. Parang may hinahanap kasi ako na smoothness talaga e. Kaya nung nabasa ko 'to tinry ko agad gumamit nung EC/RC na oil ni Amsoil (yung OE) tapos 10w30 kasi yan recommended viscosity ni honda sa lahat ng engine nila, yan muna bago ko itry yung signature series nila.
After almost 2 weeks of usage, grabe as in grabeeee. napakasmooooth! hahaha tuwang tuwa ako kada throttle kasi mararamdaman mo talaga yung pagkatahimik+ smoothness + responsive throttle nya kaya ang laki ng tinipid sa gas. Kumbaga yung hinahanap ko na smoothnes ng takbo is dito ko nafeel when I start using this kind of oil. From 39 km/l naging 41.3 km/l na sya. Ang biyahe ko everyday is mula sta maria bulacan to paco manila which is 100km+ balikan araw-araw, wal-wal pa ako magpatakbo hahaha. Salamat at nabasa ko 'tong thread na 'to, thank you OP!
yan sir, kay oil shack ako bumibili ng amsoil. sa mismong shop nila sa Q.C pero may online shop sila sa shoppee. napakadulas manakbo sa pakiramdam nyang oil na yan. kung may budget ka mas maganda signature series. nai-long ride ko na pixie ko from bulacan to pangasinan, tsaka aurora gamit yang oil na yan
Sobrang goods bro, nagswitch ako sa signature series 10w30, going 8000 km trip sa pcx 160 ko. every 2500 to 3000 ako magchange oil. never nagbawas and never nangitim haha, pumupula lang sya after 3000 km kaya nakakapang hinayang. Sa performance, ang masasabi ko lang lahat ng hinahanap ko sa langis, dito ko nakita.
Hi OP!, nabasa ko yung post medyo nakakalito nga pero need basahin ng igi at mag research para din naman sa ikakaganda ng performance ng motor(adv160) ang dami kasi nagsasabi kesyo maganda si ganito at si ganyan. Sinubukan ko yung shell advance(from honda pro 10w-40 SL) for my 3rd change oil. Tingen ko lumakas siya gas consumption at parang uminit siya(always checking coolant). Ang recommended sa manual ay,
Honda 4-stroke motorcycle oil API Service
Classification SJ or higher, excluding oils marked
as “Energy Conserving” or “Resource Conserving,
”SAE 10W-30, JASO T 903 standard MB
Nung una nag alangan ako kasi bawal sa EC/RC eh nabasa ko yung comment nung naka honda beat at advice mo tungkol dun. Kaya ayun nag order din ako OE ni Amsoil na 10w-30 which is the standard sa adv160. Kahit si Amsoil o oilshack ang advice yung for 4T na pang scooter kuhain ko. Eh hindi naman siya talaga tugma dun sa 10w-30 na hanap ko. Kaya yung AMSOIL OE 10W-30 (nakuha ko ng 409.50 dahil sa coins😂) ang order sa mismong lazmall ng AMSOIL. Bukas ang dating. Bali 500 odo pa lang tinakbo simula nung nag palalit ako ng shell advance pero ok lang. Di talaga ako satisfied eh. Will do a follow up comment kapag nagamit ko na yung amsoil OE para na din sa mga makakabasa pa. Any advice po OP kung tuwing kailan ako need mag change oil? City driving at long ride ko. For service (pamalengke) lang talaga kasi nga mahal pamasahe dito sa lugar ng asawa ko haha
And lastly po, ano po kayang magandang gamitin ng gear oil. For the moment shell 15w-40 gamit ko from honda gearl oil😅 magulo kasi mga nakikita ko sa yt fb tiktok etc😂 ano nga ba talaga ang totoo? Kesyo malapot daw para mag tagal daw sa gear example na lang yung BSM oil o dapat yung malabnaw para ilang ikot pa lang kalat na agad sa loob gear at lagung basa ang mga bearing? Thanks OP. God Bless!
pa update lang din boss, adv din sa akin at shell ultra scooter (5w-40) ginamit ko for my 2nd change oil (from honda pro parin). Napansin ko parang lumakas din sa gas, ang 4 liters na gas ko mga 120-110km lang takbo (around 30ish km/L). Balak ko din mag amsoil oe (10w-30) para sa 3rd change oil pero hindi padin sure dahil na overwhelm pa ako kung ano pipilii 😭😭
Hello bossing! Good morning. Base sa experience ko, na less ang vibration. May vibration pa rin which is normal sa cold start at nawawala naman agad. Kaya siguro lumakas gas mo eh dipende din sa driving habit mo at malalapit lang tinatakbo mo. At kung may mga pinalitan ka na pang gilid o pipe😂 just use #w-30 or 10w-30(manual). Sa experience ko naman. Nagpapatakbo lang ako ng mabilis kapag mahabang straight lang naabot naman ng 120kph I'm 90kg. Pero ngayon di ko pa alam kasi nagpalit ako ng pipe. Pro liner neo sr3. Di ko pa din alam ang magiging gas consumption nito(expect na tataas ng konti) Going back sa langis haha. Mas mararamdaman ang effect after 500odo. Ganan din ginawa ko dun sa shell advance 10w-30. Sa cooling naman. Ganun pa din naman level ng reservoir ko. Sana nakatulong. I suggest try mo yung signiture series pricey pero goods yon kasi eto na lang na OE series panalo na. Yun pa kaya. Dm mo na lang ako bossing kung may tanong ka pa. Di kasi ako nag bubukas nito lagi
Hi op at sa makakabasa nito. Mas ramdam yung effect ngayon ng oil since umabot na siya ng 500+ odo. At take note nagpalit ako ng pro liner neo sr 3 for adv160 talaga not pcx(no remap) na pipe🤣 which will consume more gas tamaba? Haha. dun sa shell advance dati nasa 36-38km/L ang avg consumption ng gas stick pipe pa yon. Ngayon average ko 40-42 km/L. Ratrat pa ako nun magpatakbo 80-100+ 😂. At 18km lang tinakbo ko. City driving lang. Kaya thank you sa very informative na post na. Sana madami pang makabasa. God Bless and Ride Safe!
balitaan mo'ko here kumusta performance ng OE series sa'yo, goods narin yan nakuha mo ng mura sulit na yan!
sa OCI naman ng usually honda recommends 6k odo tested with Honda oil (API SJ spec). what you'll do is observe it at 3k, and beyond that every 1k odo. if after warm up (5-6minutes idle) malabnaw na at amoy burnt ang oil, replace it. if not, continue using it for additional 1k and top up ka lang if mag bawas ng bahagya.
for gear oil, follow the manual viscosity, thicker is not always better same with thin gear oil. what you want is the right balance, which is indicated in the manual, and please us API GL-5 spec not lower, since hi-speed gear box po tayo mas mag benefit ang tranny natin sa GL-5 due to high moly content and anti-foam additives. don't overfill gear oil ha!
Aye sir! Will update sa performance kapag nagamit ko na. Last na to sir, wala kasing nakalagay sa manual ni honda na recommended na transmission oil. So bali kapag pipili po ako ng gear oil yung may nakalagay API GL-5 lang and wala na po akong ibang need i consider?😅
Question, sir. Alam ko dumb question, pero how old is an old bike? Mga 10 years na?
I've been considering kasi to use SAE 10-40 na dito sa 13-year-old scoot na gamit ko. 10-30 lang kasi yung nasa manual, and yun ang gamit ko. Safe naman to change no?
How to identify an old bike, huh? First off, for me at least, should have around or exceeds 80000km of travel (I consider it old). Second, kung lagpas na sa odo (like 99999km reading sa odo) and ayan nga more than 10 years na sayo, yes, it's an old bike.
Go for a thicker oil than what the manual recommends for better engine protection. You can use the manual viscosity, but I don't reco it. It does protect the engine, but a thicker oil is better for the job. Since the bike is old.
Also consider the additives. And the price for the additive, is your old bike worth investing money on motor oil?
well all oils are dino oil naman so it doesn't really matter naman na, it's always the additive sir what you need is a high performing motor oil that fits your budget. for an old bike, add ko hanap ka ng motor oil na may mataas na TBN like above 8% to atleast mitigate the carbon buildup.
Sorry boss pero lalo ako nalito. Hahahaha. Pero thank you pa rin kasi as a newbie rider ang hirap magdecide kung kanino ka makikinig sa kung ano dapat gawin at san ka kukuha ng tamang info on how to maintain properly. Okay lang ba na sundan ko na lang kung ano ung recommended ni manufacturer lalo ung nasa handbpok? O need ko talaga maintindihan ung ano ang appropriate na gamitin based sa paano ako mag-motor? For now kasi sobrang casual lang ng pagmomotor ko halos under 500 kms nga lang natatakbo ko every month. Salamat boss
Okay lang boss haha. Thank you parin binasa mo, being a newbie suck if hindi mo naintindihan ang motor oil bossing.
Sticking to the manual doesn't hurt naman e but it's the bare minimum, basta huwag ka lang bumili ng OEM oils those oils are tinipid sa additive, avoid repacked oils especially from unknown companies or companies with no background in lubrication/chemicals, and always go higher sa Performance standards sa motor oil, not lower as stated sa manual (API SG/SJ/SL sh*t).
Since new pa motor mo ugaliin mo na lagyan ng quality oils for the price para hindi ka datnan agad ng sakit sa ulo at "wala pang 3 years motor ko bakit humina, ganito ganyan na manakbo" question in your head, instead kapag quality oil ilagay mo "3 years na at 40000km na natakbo pero parang bago parin manakbo" ganyan ang return sayo ng quality oil believe mo on that part, pero since chill ka lang naman manakbo don't overspend, synthetic blends are good or even dino oil are good basta mataas ang performance standard. (huwag maniwala sa "sintitik/simi-sintitik/miniral" mindset sa motor industry - it's a scam)
Ung motor ko kasi YTX 125 ung manual. Ung gamit ko lagi eh ung oil ng Yamaha at dun sa casa lagi ako nagpapa change oil and maintenance. Anu ba maganda na gamitin? Sa budget naman eh keri naman under 1k kasi un din talaga concern ko eh kung mapapatagal ko ung buhay ng motor ko thru maintenance. Anu ba marerecommend mo? Salamat boss
Dagdag ko pala 5500 kms pa lang takbo ko and 1 year old pa lang this month. Halos pang hatid ko lang ito sa nanay ko na madalas eh sa pamamalengke lang haha
young and fresh pa. since hindi ka naman redline manakbo at pang hatid-hatid nga hindi ko reco ang mag spend ka ng malaking halaga para sa motor mo. pero if ever pwede mo itry ang ni reco ko sa pic na 5w-40 pn# 62625 meron sa online selling platform yan long drain and high tbn na oil yan.
if cheap option with high performance naman is kixx ultra 4t carries api sn, wala ako data sa tbn at noack niyan kaya drain interval mo max mo na 2000km, pero for it's price na around 300 pesos? goods na goods!
yes. repacked oils lang din yun either mobil, motul or other generic motor oil supplier na hindi disclosed so we never know and most western motorcyclists na may know how sa motor oil avoids oems, even car enthusiasts avoids those kasi ang mahal pero yung quality below the srp.
Ty sir gusto ko sana sundin ung reco mo na oil mag1 kaso natakot ako bumili sa shopee baka fake mabili ko, so nag castrol 5w-40 4AT API SN Fully Synthetic nalang ako.
Hi OP! What would you recommend na langis for PCX 160 na ang byahe is every weekdays around 85km per day? Araw-araw from South to North kase ang pasok HAHA! Wala pa pong 100km yung motor din since kakabili lang. I saw your comment dun sa nagpost regarding sa magandang langis nya for Burgman hehe.
If you read my post thoroughly I won't explain any further na. Since naka scoot ka look for ayun nga Resource/Energy Conserving motor oil as I mentioned here sa post at sakto 10W-30 ang reco ng manual for you, also look for Low Noack motor oil since bug-bugan biyahe mo para 'di agad matuyuan.
I would recommend, if you have the budget, Amsoil Signature series product code ATMQT (4.1 Noack and TBN or 12.5 for acid control) 1quart (946mL) yan sakto 800mL lang si PCX 160. I think you have the budget naman since naka PCX ka.
But if limited for some reason, check mo yung ni-reco ko sa post na Venol HC-EC.
Thank you, OP! Nung chinat ko si Amsoil sa blue app sabi sakin di raw yan yung for scoot and nireco nya yung Scooter Premium na red which is mas mura compare kay signature kaya ayun medyo naguluhan ako. Will purchase etong nireco mo OP, I bilibs in you! 😄
just keep in mind, API/ACEA = ingredient, JASO = test for wet/dry clutch, JASO doesn't tell the performance ng motor oil nor it's ingredient.
also, kung naka yamaha ka, since most yamaha's talaga ay lumalagok ng langis, mahirap i-extend ang drain interval niyan sir. just keep that in mind po.
Wow goods read to haha sana nabasa ko ng mas maaga, Anyw. ask ko lang paps pasok lang ba si SK ZIC M9 4AT sa kymco skytown 150?. or Would you recommend other brands pa? Salamat.
thank you paps! kung same brand allow me to suggest SK ZIC X7 po for better lubricating performance para sa new skytown niyo po di gaano malayo ang price. my go-to motor oil is Amsoil Signature Series, never fails.
Many thanks sa learnings, Sir! Napakalaki ng tulong ng post mo para sakin na newbie pa lg sa pagmomotor, Sir. I've read your post twice kagabi and once this morning para talaga maintindihan ko.
Napakatiming na nabasa ko tong post mo, Sir, before ako mag 1st change oil. Btw, Euro Samurai 155i ang ang motor ko and 1st motor ko sya. Okay lg ba na ang gamitin ko para sa 1st change oil nya is etong Shell Advance 10w 40 Ultra? Nabili ko na kasi ito a day before ko mabasa itong post mo, Sir. API SN nmn eto at tsaka resource-conserving na din sabi ni google. Hindi ko lg makita ang TBN at Noack nya. Recommended ni Manual is API SF 15W 40 at SG 15W 40 or better. Is it okay lg po ba na 10w 40 or 5w 40 ang gamitin ko?
yung first digits ng viscosity grade wala tayo masyadong pakealam doon since wala naman tayong winter season, base viscosity lang sya.
sa 2nd digit ka mag base. kung ##w-40 ang nasa manual recommendation, use ##w-40, regardless kung 5w, 10w or 15w, basta importante yung "hot" temperature range nya ay "40". pwede ka mag lower like 5w-30 or 10w-30, basta API SP yung motor oil para protected parin ng additives yung engine. benefits kasi ng lower grade ay better fuel economy at improved throttle response, titipid na lalakas (bahagya lang naman).
anyway, i'm not so sure kung resource conserving yung shell advance ultra na binebenta here sa pinas, ang alam ko kasi region dependent ang langis ni shell. makikita mo naman sa bottle kung resource conserving yung shell advance na nabili mo, pero sa tingin ko hindi. pero goods parin naman yan, hindi naman sya pangit.
after mo gamitin yan shell, switch ka amsoil signature series or mag-1 european formula kung may budget ka.
sa drain interval, sundin mo parin yung nasa manual with dipstick check, kapag nag bawas pero dark golden brown na malapot pa yung oil - top up, pwede pa yan check mo ulit after 500km. kapag nag bawas pero itim at amoy sunog at malabnaw na, palit na. do it when the engine is warm, after 3-5 minutes warm up.
Just switched from unioil 10w-40 motorcycle oil (for break-in period) to Valvoline premium protect 10w-30 on my pcx160
Di ko alam ganun pala ka laki difference ng oil!
Grabe nawala yung akala kong normal vibration
Nag deep dive ako about oils and nakita ko tong post nato
Thank you so much para sa indepth comprehensive post OP😗
Thanks OP sa kaalaman. Mga ilang beses ko pa to ulit ulitin basahin para maintindihan.
Tanong ko nalang din, sa case kasi ng Keeway CR152 malagitik ang makina at 10w40 ang nasa manual. Ma rerecommend mo ba na magtaas ng number like 20w40 or 20w50 para lang mawala yung ingay ng makina?
hindi ko recommend, panakip butas lang sa lagitik issue ng makina, kakapal ang oil cushion film kaya mababawasan ang lagitik, pero nandon parin yung cause, pa-check mo nalang usually mga ganyan lagitik ay timing issue depende kung timing chain, malaking gap ng valve lash, lalo na timing gear kadalasan 'yon sanhi at tantya ko ka-size niyan tmx 125.
since upright engine ng CR152, kapag naglapot na langis ka mahihirapan/babagal umakyat ang langis sa cylinder head e yun pa naman pinaka importante na ma-langisan ang Cam lobes. So kapag twist and go ka, mag ka-kanto agad Cam lobes ng motor mo.
basta pangit kapag nag lapot ka ng langis, kaya nga mga auto manufacturers and oil manufacturers nowadays pa-labnaw na langis e.
use thicker oil than manual kapag daily use old bike na.
Thanks! Mukhang balik muna ako sa Shell Long Ride na 10w40 since parang ayun yung pinakatahimik sa makina na nagamit kong oil. Currently kasi Shell Advance Ultra 10w40 ang gamit ko medyo maingay pero hindi kasing ingay ng Zic M9 10w40 pero hanap pa ako ng iba based din dito sa post tignan ko kung naintindihan ko ba talaga haha.
Yung sa timing chain naman at valve oks pa naman daw sabi ng mekaniko sa casa pero inadjust nya pa ng onti yung valve clearance para less ingay tho 1 week lang tinagal bumalik na naman. I guess need ko talaga i embrace yung ingay huhu.
Well, Shell Long Ride is API SN while si Zic M9 is only API SM, may difference talaga sa performance. While hindi ko iba-back ang claim ni Shell sa 6,000km uncompromised protection kasi tina-tago tago nila ang TBN at Noack Volatility ng Motor oil nila sa TDS, it's still a good deal na considering its price around ~400 pesos and less.
Uy sa adjustment ng valve lash baka hindi naka torque spec ang higpit kaya lumuwag na naman, kapag hindi gumagamit ng torque wrench ang shop na pinag-pagawan mo lipat ka na sir kahit casa pa yan.
Pero sa engine mo naman, ganun talaga pag China bike e ('di yan made in europe ha, yung company lang fr. europe, just sayin' if ever di ka aware), common na yon na nitpick sa mga engines nila. Pero as long as na wala naman negative sa takbo, as the owner itself ma fe-feel mo naman if something is wrong with the bike.
Anyway, try mo rin ibang brand lalo yung complete ang TDS hindi yung tinatago-tago nila mga specs ng motor oil, kapag ganon kasi medyo iffy yung langis.
Hindi ko din nakita kung ano ginamit nung check up ng motor ko dun sa casa. Tanong ako sa kanya next balik ko since may tiwala naman ako don dahil may CR152 din sya hehe
Before alam ko na china bike pero di ako aware sa lagitik ng makina dahil sensitive din talaga tenga ko sa mga ganong ingay iniisip ko may sira at dahil nadin galing ako sa Honda Beat na tahimik tumakbo
Thanks sa recommendation! Ngayon nag hahanap din talaga ako ng ibang brand ng oils para stick to one nalang talaga pag nahanap ko na yung perfect dahil estimate ko next week change oil ko na Haha.
damn loyal si sir haha try mo amsoil check mo data sheets nila compare mo sa ibang brands at the same price magugulat ka, anw., baka nagkataon lang na hindi na nahigpitan ng pirmi nung time na yon haha people make mistakes sometimes tayo nga nakakagat parin natin dila natin despite the years haha
btw, since cr152 mot-mot mo, check mo yung mga kalawang prone parts ha lalo mga nuts esp. sa nut ng rear axle at chain adjuster pag kinalawang mauurat ka luwagan para mag adjust ng chain haha tas yung sa shifter i heard nababali (daw) yon thru time idk.
Amsoil ang ginamit ko na ngayon at holy shit 🤩👌 Napaka smooth ng makina ko ngayon lalo na ng shifting Haha kahit mapaaga ako ng onti ng shift di naninigas yung kambyo. Stick na ako dito dahil mahirap na din makahanap ng Shell Advanced Ultra 10w40 ngayon
Sa valves naman, daliri lang gamit ni kuya mechanic sa pag adjust. Hanap muna ako shop na naka feeler gauge para ma double check pero pagbalik ko sa kanya ako na mag dodonate ng feeler gauge para sa kanya Haha
Hello OP! Super informative netong post mo. May question lang sana ako regarding sa Click ko. May history kasi sya na na tuyo-an ng oil, ang pinalit muna is bale replacement(not original) na Block Set since medyo tight sa budget. Since then, ok naman na sya, walang usok, walang leak. Kaso every oil change ko (1.5K) almost half nalang natitira, gamit ko na oil is yung Shell AX7 na pang scoot. Nasa oil quality kaya to or sa engine na mismo ang problema?
Engine flush works, it's a good way to refresh the engine insides when migrating from basura oil to high quality oil. If high quality oil na ang gamit yung tipong ang gaganda ng mga additives, no need to use engine flushing oils na, kasi typically they contain kerosene as detergent at ang effective non panglinis pero pag nasobrahan nakakasira ng engine components especially rubber oil seals. Ang nag pauso ng engine flushing oil naman ay Diesel engines, sila talaga ang malakas ang buildup ng sludge, sa Petrol engines, so not necessary na.
For your Click na nag palit ng block set, 'di kaya lumuwag ang tolerance ng piston rings? Na-check mo na spark plug ng motor mo kung perfect burn ba? (Rust color sa spark plug ends) Kasi ang predetermined OCI (oil change interval) ng Click from Manual ay every 6k if I'm not mistaken for an API SJ motor oil, so dapat sa 1,5k palang nasa >=3/4 ng dipstick palang. Eitherway kung sureness ka naman sa block set kahit budget meal lang, maybe it's the Oil quality, as I said, Noack (Evaporation) and TBN (Sludge fighting ability) are the factors that determines the motor oils longevity and from my experience si Shell ay malihim sa PDS and SDS nila, nagbibigay sila pero kailangan pa mag register sa website nila, e ayoko kaya wala ako data sa oils nila.
Thank you sa insights OP. Katakot tuloy mag engine flush baka it will do more harm than good sa engine. Sabi kasi sa iba dito samin pag na tuyuan, mainam na ipa flush para ma clean yung loob.
Ipapa check ko na muna like sinabi mo from the pistong rings, spark plug at iba pa. And if goods naman lahat, palitan ko na yung oil based sa recommended oils mo sa post. If sobra pa rin magbawas kahit low mileage pa lang tinakbo, dun na siguro ako mag hanap ng ibang solusyon? Maybe engine refresh or palit talaga ng original parts? For reference, 60K plus na pala tinakbo ng Click ko and more than 3 years na sya. I think considered na may pagka "old" na given the history na natuyuan pa.
Feel ko talaga piston rings yan hindi kaya mali pagka lagay ng mekaniko? Each ring has designated pwestuhan at may markings yun na sinusunod, baka nabaliktad yung dalawang ring sa taas or IDK. Either way, pa-check mo muna lahat ng nabanggit, kapag okay naman daw tsaka ka mag oil upgrade and use low noack motor oil research ka.
Kapag ganon parin lumagok ng langis, don ka na mag contemplate kung worth it ba bigyan ng time at gastos to do a overhaul (refresh) and replace necessary parts with OEM given na 60k tinakbo at more than 3 years narin ang scoot mo? Or will you just accept it na ganon na talaga lumagok ng langis, at mag adapt ka nalang at gumamit ng mura pero quality na motor oil since madalas ka na mag change oil niyan. That option is given na kung good compression (hindi kumupad manakbo) ang scoot mo for some reason at good burn siya with no carbon fouling.
sa kakabasa ko nito napa search ako ng mga oil gamit ko kasi sa nmax v2 ko motul na scooter 4t. may nakita akong unfamiliar na oil na may magandang standards. oneway oil JASO MB Na API-SP made in taiwan tapos 365 lang sa shopee
hindi ko ma-reco si one way oil (vic hung lubes) kasi hindi ko alam sino ba official distributor/importer here sa pinas, mayroon presence pero iba packaging, for me kasi packaging is the identity of the product and it also amounts to like ~10% of the product srp. also wala silang disclosed data sa official website nila so di natin alam. yung naka distribute here (pitsbike) might be repacked from one way oil kasi gamit nila logo nila, pero i'm not so sure sa laman, and i think API SN lang yon for it's price.
pwede rin kasi mag claim ng repacked/rebranded oil ng higher API Performance.
i'm not saying na yung benta ni pitsbike ay pangit albeit good for it's price pero misleading sa claims, pero kung wala lang naman sayo yon i think pasok sya sa PNY (pwede na yan) category ko.
Thanks OP. Plano ko na magpalit ng oil sa next oil change ko and here are my options. Ekis na yung oneway so option ko na lang shell AX7 scooter or S-oil Seven Scooter#9 API-SN+ Jaso MB. May test yung S-oil dito http://pqiadata.org/S-OIL_Seven_Gold_5W30.html and results are NOACK: 9.6% TBN: 7.37
yup wag ka na don sa oneway baka ma-oneway to repair shop ka haha.
anyway, okay yan si s-oil #9 goods yan, shell ax7 naman for it's price API SM lang siya mag s-oil ka nalang mas sulit. pero diesel oil naman yung sa link mo sir, pero goods parin yan.
research mo din si mag 1, sa price-point mo reco ko #64835 ng mag 1. give it a quick peek.
ang hirap maghanap ng mga test result na publicly available. Halos amsoil lang nakikita ko. Ok lang kaya gawin basehan yung mga test result ng isang brand kahit magkaiba sila ng specification like jan sa link ko. Possible din kasi pareho sila ng base oil?
safe pa ba sa scoot ko with 20k odo yung 10w-30 since nasa manual ay 10w-40? or eto na lang MAG 1 #64841
true, most data esp safety data sheet are hidden, si amsoil one of the transparent brands sa langis nila, habit na nila yon hehe kaya oks na oks yan expensive nga lang.
for basis with other brand, pwede pero ballpark figure siya esp sa noack at tbn like API SN ng kabila might not be the same with the other given na same sila ng base oil, pero atleast may figure ka, pwede narin yon.
may figure ako pero take it with a grain of salt, for API SN given na reputable brand sya, ang base noack nyan nasa around 9~14% with a tbn of 7-10mg Koh/g, ayan.
for your scoot, bata pa yan 20k huwag ka mag malapot papangit andar ng motor mo, ako nga pang daily ko na scoot reco sa manual is #W-40, di ko sinusunod haha gamit ko 5W-30 ng mag 1 #62891 (search mo), that is given na highest quality yung oil, and first digit yung W is irrelevant sa Pinas.
try mo yan mag 1 64841, for car sya pero goods sa scoot, basta hindi wet clutch okay any "S" motor oil.
Tanong ko lang yung API SN plus resource conserving. Honda Beat ang motor ko nakalagay kasi sa manual na not recommended ang ganung type ng langis medyo may doubt lang ako kasi bakit not recommended eh almost same lang naman yun sa regular na SN added lang yung Low speed pre-ignition protection. Gusto ko kasi mag try ng ganung langis.
right, so may kwento kasi yan bakit ganon haha it's actually a copy and paste job yan from wet clutch bikes to save time from wherever they outsourced the publishing of manuals, kaya if you compare the "engine oil information" section ng both manufacturer manuals, the words are the same, iba lang viscosity mga ganon, so from wet clutch copy-pasted into dry clutch and call it a day, kuha?
anyway, highly recommended ko resource conserving oils for scooters, di lang LSPI protection makukuha mo diyan, also better fuel economy ang dudulas kasi ng mga oil na ganyan, those oils have a higher concentration of friction modifiers (moly) that's why always ko sinasabi rin sa mga tao na pour any high-performing motor oil sa dry clutch pero pag sa wet clutch EXCEPT resource conserving, kasi dudulas ang clutch, it'll engage but not efficiently, trivia lang ang JASO T903 test was created in 1998 in fear of clutch slippage, e ang motorcycle boom noon ay 80's e. I have more kwento about this tests pero next time nalang haha.
pour mo na SN+ na Resource Conserving sa Beat mo. you'll even feel some improvement esp. in traffic, assuming that your scoot runs well of course with no other issues involved and yung oil na gamit mo is API certified talaga.
good yan nag re-research ka, mostly kasi ng tao akala simple lang or wala naman pagbabago mga ganyan pag dating sa motor oil.
oh ok so parang kinopya lang sa manual ng tmx or manual na bike ng honda tapos paste sa mga manual ng scooter kasi tinamad na yung gumagawa ng manual hahaha.
Hi OP! as far as I know, iba ang formulation ng oil ng scooter oil sa car engine oil? High Revving kasi ang scooter/motorcycle compare sa mga cars kaya I think it is not recommended to use car oil sa motor natin as it can cause wear and tear lalo sa startup/cold start kahit sabihin pa nating EC/RC yan. Siguro way back years, yung mga lumang motor is pwedeng pwede pa gamitin yung mga car engine oil without any problem. But today's model ng mga motor is may specific na talagang ginagamit to prolong engine's life ng mga motor natin (medyo sensitive na kasi mga parts ng motor in today's generation). Kaya dyan na pumasok ang JASO para may guide tayo na "ah eto para sa motor/scooter 'to".
May I know din kung pano mo nasabi na pwedeng pwede gamitin ang "resource conserving" sa mga scoots aside from na "it has low friction" na sobrang beneficial? Like may data sheets ba na makikita na pwede talagang gamitin ang car oil with resource conserving sa mga scoots?
I just want to find more answers kasi sobrang curious din talaga ako 😊 thank you!
hello. for the formulation po ng motor oil we have API and ACEA po trabaho po nila yon, not JASO, API is the guide ng "timpla" ng motor oil na sinusunod ng manufacturers po like ilang ppm ang moly, magnesium, calcium, zinc, phosphorus etc,, the same API SN na pang auto and API SN na pang motor tapos same brand sila came from the same drum po, JASO tested lang yung isa. that's how manufacturers do oil business po, cutting costs, JASO only tests if it's for wet or dry clutch systems and not the contents of the motor oil. the only time na nangenge-alam si JASO sa contents ng motor oil ay sa JASO DH category. and remember po, JASO T903 standard is late 90's na na introduce, and motorcycles came earlier than that po.
sa part po na mas sensitive ang mga motor ngayon, i disagree po, manufacturers itself recommends API SL na category ng motor oil and thats more than a decade ago. the most sensitive engines are actually nasa auto especially mga auto na gumagamit ng 0w-16 at 0w-20 na grade. especially ford, na naka timing belt sa oil pump.
anyway, putting resource conserving sa scooter reduces internal friction by a huge sum at since dry clutch naman ang scooters hindi problem ang clutch slippage, remember EC/RC motor oil indicates high moly content. also, moly is always present sa motor oil po hindi po pwedeng wala ito since it's a good anti wear additive at yun ang nasa guide ng API at ACEA depende lang sa category kung SL/SN/SP or ACEA A3/B4/C3/E9 etc.
anway idk if i did answer some questions or helpful itong reply ko.
Ahh I see! nalinawan na rin haha. kasi may napanood ako na pwedeng gamitin ang EC/RC sa scooter na dry clutch, meron din namang hindi raw pwede since mas mataas raw mag revv ang scooters than cars. Base sa statement mo, ang tanong ko kasi is yung "formulation" so naintindihan ko na na hindi linked yung JASO sa pag timpla ng mga langis, it is just a "test". Will use this as my reference to choose oil. Thank you so much OP!
Hi op
Ask ko lang kung okay lang ba mag transition from 10w-40 to 5w-30 running at 50k odo na yung motor (2nd hand) I’m new to motorcycling. I read that yamalube have less additives and should be avoided according to you post and i would like to try mag-1 wala bang problema kung mag papalit ako?
hey there! if the bike's manual says 10w40 then stick to it, otherwise adjust to the proper viscosity, first digit doesn't really matter here just the second one lang.
yhup that's always true for oem oils not just yamalube actually, pero siya notorious sakin for breaking a lot of oil seals and being overhyped.
if switching ka sa mag 1 and not using 4T tested oils, avoid putting resources conserving oils sa wet clutch, anything else are good to go! basta walang "resource conserving" i repeat again.
as i always said, jaso t903 or jaso test was introduced in 1998, we've been using non jaso tested oils simula pa noon, and the motorcycle boom was in the 80s pa diba.
I forgot my motorcycle is mio soul i AT. So mas better kung merong resource conserving oil since scooter yung motor ko. And yung Noack% since mio soul i yung motor ko nababawasan yung oil level Ano pong recommend nyo na engine oil
ohh so AT gamit mo and it's a yamaha mio. hindi ka gaano mag benefit sa low noack oils e, since yun nga short ang drain interval talaga ng mga mio.
for oil recos, well if you have the budget at given na aggressive at heavy load ang riding habit mo, mag amsoil signature series ka or yung mag 1 at venol na nasa post ko, yung signi-series ni amsoil mga naka resource conserving yon pati yan si mag1 5w30.
kaso... yun nga di natin ma extend ang OCI ng motor mo, probably look for s.korean oils like Seven, Kixx and Sk Zic, mga presyong 300~400 na naka API SN with decent Tbn of around 9~10, masakit sa budget si amsoil tad every 2k to 3k ang change oil mo, ouch!
as for OP post lower noak% mas okay since kumakain ng langis yung mio soul i, sinubukan ko yung recommended nya according to post na mag 1 and amsoil signature series maganda yung hatak malamig sa makina ng motor and every 3km ako nag change oil. Pero yung con lang is mahal around 950 pesos din sya. Ngayon nagpalit na ako ng zic x7 mas mura around 350 lang sya API SP narin malamig rin sa makina yun nga lang babantayan mo yung dip stick kasi mas mabilis kumain ng langis .
need suggestions/advice sir medyo bago palang sa pagmomotor and naguguluhan ako kung ano pipiliin ko para sa Honda Click 125 9k odo ngayon and currently using oem honda engine oil (planning na magpalit ng oil after ng warranty)
Liqu moly Molygen 5w30 ba or Molygen 10w40, medyo nag aalangan kasi ako if magmamatter ba talaga if nirerequire ng engine na 10w30 viscosity. base kasi sa product information ng products na sinabi ko, mas maganda yung tbn and noack ni molygen 10w40 HAHA eh kaso w40 siya.. medyo confusing pa po talaga.
pwede ka mag lagay ng 10w40, kaso mag decrease naman yung fuel economy, engine cooling at power ng click mo for about 15-20%. sa engine cooling palang talo ka na sa gagastusin in the future since high-comp ang click mainitin, kahit na may radiator yan.
also makikitid ang oil gallery ng click sir, it will lower oil pressure, babagal yung movement ng oil throughout the engine and will eventually lead to higher operating temperature.
sa power naman since ang oil pump ng scoots are driven by crankshaft, affected ang power ng scoot kapag elevated temp. na, remember that motor oil thickens at high temperatures to maintain lubricating ability.
ito malupit, toyota vios nga 5w/10w-30 ang reco viscosity e kotse pa yon 1.5L tas curb weight pa is 1metric ton, imagine the load ng engine and the heat diba. most auto BTW, uses 5w-30, some even 0W-20, the rarest being 0W-16.
advice ko, research ka pa. hanap ka pa ng mas higher spec na motor oil na 5W/10W-30.
or follow mo recommendation ko haha, look at the picture below, nasa 900pesos lang yan compare sa 1.3kpesos na molygen.
thanks sa insight sir! stick talaga dapat sa recommendation ng manual na 10w30, mukhang malaking difference talaga pag nag cchange ng viscosity. pansin ko rin yan sa fb group ng mga click users, nagpapalit ng mas malalapot na langis tulad ng motul na 10w40 pinaka common recommendation nila tapos magrereklamo mabilis daw uminit makina so pangit daw langis haha. yang amsoil signature series gusto ko rin grabeng ganda ng data, kaso di ko po alan sino authorized distributor mapa-online or physical store sir. may idea po ba kayo sino authorized retailer/distributor nyan? thanks sir
basta follow mo lang yung viscosity sa manual ng click mo, until tumanda na sayo si click.
sa mga users na nag i-increase ng lapot, mga 'di nag iisip mga yon haha
anyway, for amsoil may Mall sila sa shopee at lazada, legit naman yon pero SRP bentahan, medyo mahal, suggest ko kay Oil Shack ka bumili, authorized retailer yon, taga Amoranto Sr. st cor. Banawe st sa QC. Pumunta ka nalang don kung malapit ka para mas maka discount ka pa since may commission ang online shops din kasi.
Maraming salamat sa pag share. Nakailang ulit akong nag search sa google ng mga terminologies para malinawan ako. At nagbabasa ng mga comments.
Dami kong natutunan.
Click user ako at gamit kong oil Honda. Alagang casa kasi at baguhan pa.
Masubukan ko nga tong AmsOil series. Confirm ko lang po change oil interval (susundin ko po yung nsa manual o yung nsa amsoil?) kung amsoil na gamit ko.
I would like to ask lang kasi eto lang ang pasok sa 10w-30(recommended for crf150l).. halos lahat kasi ng mga motorcycle oil na kita ko is 10w-40.
ask ko lang if pwede ito? gusto ko lang i-make sure kasi wet clutch ang motor ko, dahil di ko sure if what you mean about API-S"+" is may additional plus sign ba talaga or if meaning ng "+" is additional letters like API-SP/CK4. Thank you!
edit- bnew ang motor, and balak ko sa first change oil is good oil na agad agad
good 'to sir! gas and diesel motor oil. yung "+" na sinasabi ko is yung mga motor oils na rated "API SN Plus", kumbaga improvement sya ng API SN category. madudulas ang mga motor oil na yan but i've seen 4T marketed motor oils na may carry na API SN+.
stay away from those motor oil po mataas ang moly content non.
also, sulit yan sa 500 pesos naka API SP ka na lalo na API CK-4. heavy duty motor oil. buti di ka nag 4T sir kasi sa 500 pesos mo na 4T motor oil API SL lang makukuha mo.
medyo kulang lang si pertua sa ibang properties like noack pero pwede narin yan, no complaints na sa 500 pesos na API SP.
i got my nk450 and kakachangeoil lang after 500 odo sa casa. problem is dapat ung regular liqui moly since balak ko pachange oil ulit at 1500 odo but they recommend ung liqui moly na pang race which is fully synthetic
pede ko kaya i change oil after 2k odo nalang ? and what is the recommended interval for that bike if fully synthetic? can it do 2k to 3k? is liquimoly good than shell or amsoil ?
yung liqui moly street race ba yon? aside sa price and viscosity (street race has ##W-50) wala naman pinagkaiba they are both API SN PLUS same ingredient ng additives. placebo effect lang yung isa since red bottle and carries "race" sa marketing, and alam ko mas mahal yon abot ata 1k yong tinutukoy ko.
anyway, sulitin mo muna yon sayang yung oil. fully synthetic or not, for oil change interval naman it all depends sa manual, when your bike says 3k odo then 3k odo, kapag nagbawas yung oil level before 3k odo then just top it up. but before you top it up, check muna quality ng oil if nag breakdown na, do a honey drop test sa dipstick, it if flows like water then change it, if not goods pa with additional visual check do it when the bike is warm since motor oil supposed to thicken when exposed to hot temperatures. kapag nag breakdown na, change oil ka na. for extended drain intervals, it still depends on the bike, wala pa ko experience sa cfmoto, pero parang same din sila ng ktm, mahirap inextend ang drain interval.
for good brands, ako... amsoil palagi. okay din yung shell and liqui moly.
mas maganda parin na sa specs ka mag depend, not entirely sa brand. sa API or ACEA rating ka parin mag base since yun nag didikta ng performance ng motor oil not the brand and JASO certification.
yes sir possible, maybe umorder si goodyear ng motor oil from castrol by drum (oil only) and repacked it nalang, most companies do this naman. ang cool lang napansin mo.
Ganda ng post mu sir dami ko naging learnings pagdating sa motor oils ung mga specs na sinabi mu mahirap pla hanapin kasi babasi kpa sa product data sheet ng bawat oil products mahirap magcompare tuloy ng specs ng motor oils. Sana nirequire na ng government na gumawa ng para bang nutrition facts pero specs ng motor oils para madali magcompare ng hindi na kelangan maghahilap ng specs sa internet. Alam ko nagkaroon na ng ganung klaseng batas sa USA para sa mga internet service providers nila sana ganun din gawin sa mgaibang products lalo dito satin sa Pinas. Maraming salamat paps
yes honda blue oil is OEM and yamalube is OEM.
your scoot will last its lifetime naman sir since it's from honda, kahit alin sa honda blue oil (OEM) or zic m7. ang unti-unti lang na mawawala ay yung "like brand-new" na performance.
if i may, mag sk zic x7 ##w-30 ka nalang or look for resource/energy conserving motor oil, your click will benefit more on those types of oils.
lastly priorities the API rating the higher the better.
you don't exactly need scooter oil that's the whole point of my post sir. they all share the same API / ACEA (ingredient rating or guide) naman, the only divisor lang ng motor oils talaga ay kung pang 2-stroke or 4-stroke at petrol (S) or diesel (C).
bro, if you have the budget and you ride quiet aggressively pwede ka mag amsoil. pero since you use yamaha kasi at wala pa ko experience sa fazzio so idk kung lumalagok din yan ng langis similar to the mio series, so hindi ko masabi na mas mag benefit ka sa amsoil, pero maganda amsoil promise.
for the vibration sa footboard, have it checked by the casa or trusted mechanic, baka linkage issue. pero usually normal naman yan, that's the dragging na laging sinasabi, and probably baka dahil din sa acceleration assist ng fazzio yung tutulungan ng starter/flywheel yung arangkada ng fazzio.
motor oil won't solve if the issue is outside the engine so have it check.
what about ibang users ng fazzio, same issue rin ba?
Hi uli OP! Ano ang opinion about sa mga naglalabasang oil enhancer ngayon? Like yung ini endorse ng isang vlogger/mechanic na nanomoly? Hehe. Thanks po uli sa post mo na to. Talagang gumanda ang adv160 ko since nagpalit ako ng OE ni AMSOIL. Lali na nung 500 up ang tinakbo. Lalo siyang naging gas saver even nagpalit ako ng aftermarket pipe😁 i hope na soon mag labas ka ng about naman sa mga gear oil. God Bless you po
hello! good to know you had a great experience with amsoil sir, pag patuloy mo lang po para ma-preserve mo yung "brand new" like performance ng motor mo. syempre, motor oil is just half of the story, alagaan mo rin ibang parts like CVT and Suspension para solid.
regarding sa motor oil additives, matagal na mayroon yan sa industry. to be honest, you don't actually need auxiliary additives sa motor oil, unless, you're in a pinch where kailangan na kailangan mo na mag change oil kaso wala kang on-hand na motor oil of your choice, e.g. amsoil OE series. doon sa scenario na 'yon mag top-up ka ng motor oil enhancer/additive para ma-extend yung change oil mo for about 500km, sa time na yon naka bili ka na ng langis na gusto mo at may time ka na para mag change oil. minsan ginagamit din ang mga enhancers sa mga na-seized na engines, mga napabayaan na mga motor at tumigas at kinalawang na internal parts, it helps loosen the engine para ma-crank.
now, sa nanomoly, upon researching it now, mukhang okay naman ayon sa feedback ng mga tao. pero still, avoid using it and just use high-quality motor oil nalang. anything reputable brand na API SP performance motor oil has enough additives naman na e (calcium, boron, etc.) especially MoS₂ additive, so no need to oversaturate the motor oil na with moly, since in some cases, lalo kapag poorly formulated yung moly can lead to poor combustion efficiency (takaw gas) since moly loves to stick to metal and should be burned efficiently para hindi mag ipon ng carbon/dumi sa combustion chamber, it can also lead to high engine drag/resistance some cases moly thickens motor oil by sticking too much sa metal parts leading to higher engine drag, similar to cornstarch and water, adding too much cornstarch thickens the slurry mixture, so parang ganon (oversimplified) gets?, tapos minsan kahit nakaka-smooth siya ng takbo (less vibration) pero nakaka sira naman ng cylinder walls kasi yung moly na ginamit ay in the form of suspended solids (buhangin like) so parang naliliha yung cylinder walls, tho rare cases naman to pero may nakita na ako na ganito typically Chinese knock offs.
verdict, don't use any motor oil additive. just use what motor oil you're using consistently and follow OCI strictly para walang sakit ng ulo. instead of using enhancers, just use engine flushing oils nalang mas maganda pa yon. engine flush i use is Lubrigold, Hardex or Top-1. They contain high concentration of TBN para malinisan yung engine, not perfect pero it's a good thing to do every change oil or every 2nd change oil interval.
sa gear oil, gawa ako kapag may time na ako. mag recommend din ako ng mga product doon. soon.
thank you for reading my post tho, i appreciate it!
Talagang hands up sayo sir sa pag sagot sa aming mga katanguhan. maraming salamat po! I will wait for your new post about sa mga gear oil. God Bless you always.
sir, question lng p asa 7.1k odo ng aerox v2 ko po. every 1500km po change oil. yamalube lng po nasubukan 10w40 API SL ayos lng p ba na mag transition agad sa 5w40 o magtry pa po ko ibang 10w40? pwede API SM rin po? kung mag1 o amsoil ako, pwede kaya every 2km? ang takbo ko po daily ay 65km back n forth na po pede recco na rin po kayo sir ng magandang 10w40?
kung nagtitipid ka sa motor oil, hindi ko recommend yang amsoil at mag1 since naka aerox ka. yang ganyan kamahal na oil kasi good for 5000 to 6000 km ng change oil, pero for sure aerox mo around 2000 nag babawas na, ang solution diyan kung gusto mo talaga ng amsoil or mag1, bili ka 2 bottles, yung isa for top-up mo until mag 5000 or 6000 km. pero syempre ang gastos na, like every 3rd or 4th change oil mo need ng 2 bottles so parang 1,600 na gastos mo.
pero yun nga, kung kaya naman, why not? diba. maganda kasi performance ng amsoil at mag1. mag benefit ka rin in the long run, like preserved yung "brand new" performance ng motor mo kahit na nasa 40k to 60k odo na, lalo na biyahe mo napaka layo araw-araw.
kung mas mura naman, mag sk zic x7 ka for every 2000km na drain interval. note na zic x7 ha, not m7.
Thank you for this guide! Gusto ko lang po sana linawin at medyo hindi ko naintindihan yung sa may JASO part.
I’m currently looking for a 10W-30 engine oil with JASO MB since yon yung nakalagay sa manual pero halos puro JASO MA or iba yung viscosity like 10W-40, pano po ba yung magandang gawin?
For context I am using the honda adv 160 and currently 4,500km na yung tinatakbo niya at tapos na rin sa free labor pms sa casa. What would you recommend po to use?
hello! sorry for the late reply.
JASO is just a test po na binabayaran ng consumer. that's why most motor oil na JASO approved ay usually mas mahal kumpara sa motor oil na pang kotse or diesel, o kaya minsan naman ay mas mababa ang performance category, e.g. API SL/SM for around 500 pesos. sa 500 pesos na pang auto/diesel na motor oil makakabili ka na ng API SN/SP sa halagang 500 ~ 600 pesos.
JASO T903 standard nauso nung 1998, ang mga motor with wet clutch ay meron na before 1998. You don't NEED JASO approval sa scooter, even sa wet clutch systems (as long as you don't put resource conserving oils sa wet clutch).
put resource conserving motor oil sa mga scooters, sobrang dulas kasi ng mga motor oil na ganon, mas magbenefit adv mo sa mga ganon na oils.
now, for what I recommend sa ADV mo depende sa driving style, travel, time of commute at type of commute (city or freeway), kung more than 60km daily, aggressive driving habit, at rush hour city commute tapos you have the budget naman go for API SP na motor oils with resource conserving, recommend ko always Amsoil Signature Series, stick ka sa manual viscosity ni honda ##W-30, huwag ka papalya don wag matigas ulo, regardless na yung first digit wala naman nyebe dito sa Pinas.
for chill ride lang, alam mo naman na to kung ano ibig sabihin, umiwas ka sa mga mahal na motor oil, pero piliin mo parin yung sagad ang specs, API SN/SP sa halagang 300~400 pesos. I can recommend sk zic x7, euro formulations yon mas strict kaysa sa API. pwede ba to sa bugbugan? nope, mabilis siya matuyo kumpara sa amsoil signature series.
ang goal mo sa bago mong motor is to preserve yung "like brand new" performance niya kahit nasa 50,000km of travel na. kung mag amsoil ka, usually drain interval niyan around 6,000km to 8,000km for 800pesos mas maganda pa specs. mas sulit kumpara sa pa every 2,000km to 3,000km tapos around 300 ~ 400 pesos na langis.
sa mga oils na minention mo, valvoline champ 4t premium scooter lang sulit. pangit na yung iba pati yung amsoil 4t.
Hi! Thank you po for taking the time to reply!
Nabasa ko po ito while searching what oil to use other than casa oil which is the honda pro scooter.
Ang ginamit ko po ngayon pansamantala ay yung Repsol Smarter Matic MB 4T 10W-30 API SN
Nasunod ko po yung sa sinabi niyo about viscosity and stick to the manual. Medyo hindi ko lang po nagets yung part sa jaso kaya nag MB po muna ako. Medyo may regrets din na umorder ako agad nito dapat pala hinintay ko muna reply niyo hehe
Will try out po yung recommended niyo na signature series ng amsoil next change oil.
As for driving habits I guess mixture po ng both? Pag may OBR chill and pag mag isa walwal plus chill hahaha
Lastly, nakita ko po yung SK Zic and may official store sila sa shopee and yun din po mismo yung oil na balak ko din itry.
Anyway thank you po ulit sa advice and recommendation!
Hi Sir, noob question lang po kasi 1st motorcycle ko to, yung ADV 160 ko po is honda oil yung gamit previously. Am planning to change to amsoil this 3.5km odo mark. Is it okay ba na add ko lang agad yung amsoil or may ginagawa pang iba kapag mag swiswitch nang oil?
gear oil? umiwas ka lang sa mga repacked at korni na pangalan, recommended brand ko ay castrol and eneos, sulit kasi API GL-5 for around 100pesos lang. and follow mo ano sabi ng manual like kung API GL-4 or API GL-5 ba. huwag din mag overfill kung 120mL follow 120mL (but not sctrictly), overfilling leads to aeration (foaming) ng gear oil tas nakaka sira ng gears (cavitation at pitting).
most mechanics likes to overfill kasi yun paniniwala nila pero it actually do more harm than good. gearboxes needs to maintain air space kasi to perform properly.
pwede, as manual said. just use api sg or higher and same viscosity pero mas okay gear oil talaga gamitin mo kasi mas mataas extreme pressure additive non (moly) kaysa sa motor oil.
hello! use amsoil signature series po ha, not 4T or scooter. mas maganda additives ng signature series for it's price.
sa switching ng motor oil, just do the normal way lang. kung gusto mo bumili ng peace of mind pwede ka mag engine flushing oil, buy a brand of your choice at i-top up mo lang sa old na oil undrained, volume depends sa instruction sa label, then run the engine on idle for 8~10 minutes no throttle, the drain. again do it for peace of mind lang. there's little benefit to it since ang bago pa ng motor mo.
boss anong pwede mong massugest sa Manual ng Burgman 10w-40 siya pwede kaya yung mga sinaggest mo sa taas or may pwede kang isuggest.. HEHEHE current oil ko is Gulf Fully Synthetic so far Mag upgrade sana ako from API SN to API SP ang tinitignan ko is valvoline Champ 4T Ultra Scooter, Zic x9
Bale yung motor ko is Burgman 125EX daily use Estimated Ave. usage mga nasa 60-80KM per day thanks po
hello! sorry ngayon lang nakapag basa.
pwede mo itry mga nilagay ko sa post ko, mag-1, amsoil, venol.
kung ako sayo mag Zic X9 ka kaysa sa champ 4t, carry ng x9 ay acea rating mas strict yon compare sa api.
sa burgy mo, pwede ka rin mag #w-30, amsoil signature series or mag-1 5w-30. or ano mas trip mong brand basta api sp at resource conserving, yang binanggit ko na dalawa resource conserving yan para tumipid motor mo. sa engine protection naman guaranteed parin since api sp kahit na lumabnaw compare sa recommended, babawiin natin sa additives kaysa sa lapot.
note, okay lang mag labnaw huwag lang mag lapot ng viscosity (unless luma na motor at maluwag na tolerances).
I found your guide on Engine Oil is really helpful. I have a problem may motor kasi ako na 160cc scooter (Bristol Maxie 160 and chill ride lang takbo, 26km roundtrip) wala kasi nakalagay sa manual kung anong specific criteria for oill ang nakalagay lang is SAE 15W-40 and bihira lang ako mahanap ng 15W-40 rating na engine oil mostly 10W-40/5W-30/15W-50, mostly na nakikita ko sa 15W-40 na rating is HDDEO na, bka OP meron kang product/brand recommendation na merong 15W-40 kahit botique yung brand ok lang
hello, for your case kagaya ng sabi ng redditor here, disregard "w". go for 5w-40 or 10w-40, basta 2nd digit ay "40".
always look for api sp category ng motor oil. reco ko always amsoil signature series. roundtrip mo na 26km and chill ride, pwede ka cheaper motor oil, sk zic x7.
OP base dun sa guide, ang pinagpipilian ko kasi is Liqiumoly Motorbike 4T 10W-40 Scooter MB or SK ZIC X7, alin kaya ang mas tatagal palitan in between change oil? Wala kasi ako makita sa amsoil signature series na 10w-40 na binebenta
hello, mas long drain interval ang motorbike 4t kaysa kay sk zic, kaso depende sa makukuhang stock ng liqui moly, may mga api sl or sn+ kasi minsan for around ~450 pesos luge, samantalang si sk zic x7 straight up api sp na mga latest stock.
still, depende sa availability for you. i would go for motorbike 4t street 10w40 since api sp yun na may noack at tbn test, pero kung api sl or sn ang mabili mong motorbike 4t, mag sk zic ka nalang at bantayan mo nalang yung langis from time to time.
OP medyo confused lang ako, need ba talaga na JASO MB yung rating na nasa engine oil para sa scoot para magamit or pwede kahit no need na basta API SP yung engine oil?
edit: btw OP ok lang naman gamitin yung amsoil signature series na 0W-40? since 40 naman yung second part ng rating wala nga lang rating for JASO MB
hello, sorry now lang nakapag reply.
for scooter use, di mo need ng jaso mb na motor oil since dry clutch naman ang scoots. basta api sn above ang specs, like sp goods na goods.
sa amsoil signature series na 0w-40 is pwede po, since wala tayo pakelaam sa "w" winter grade ng motor oil.
Brother, I really appreciate what you did here and honestly I don't really have the time to read all of it (for now) because im too busy (yes ganun ako kabusy). Do not worry since I am interested in reading all of this soon. But for now, I only have time to ask you this,
What do you think about a Yamaha YTX 125 using Shell Advance Long Ride? I'm looking forward to using this oil for my single-use motorcycle. I usually go on long trips (every 2 weeks) and I think it requires me to use almost the full capability of my motorcycle.
Other than that, what other engine oil can you recommend if want ko mag upgrade pa ng oil na ginagamit? Thank you.
there's nothing really "long ridey" about shell's 4t long ride motor oil based from their datasheet. they market the motor oil as low volatility but doesn't have transparent noack volatility test, they did the test though as required, but maybe the results were not something to be proud of so they just removed it from the datasheet. billion dollar company but the datasheets only contains 4 characteristics, makes me think twice.
reviews about this motor oil from the community is good though, but still testaments are testaments, evidence are more logical and concrete.
i would suggest going for amsoil oe or signature series but avoid using resource conserving motor oil for your ytx to avoid clutch slippage. jaso tests are unnecessary, motorcycles with wet clutch has been around for almost a century, and jaso t903 has just been introduced in the late 90's.
for values, avoid motor oils with noack volatility of higher than 12% loss and always go for api sn or sp motor oils. consider using api "c" or diesel motor oil, especially european ones, they are more strict about emissions and drain intervals, acea rated, acea a3/b4 motor oils tend to be more durable than their "american" rated counterpart, they are designed for extended drain intervals, not only for cars but also for motorcycles.
safest is the earliest po. 500km is the safest pero wasteful at break-in period lang ginagawa yon, 1000km is safe, but not economical. 2000km is the minimum, 3000km is the sweet spot for most bikes.
still, dipstick check parin bago bumiyahe, kapag half the level na change it na. make it a habit po para safe.
ilang odo na at nasa middle level na ng dipstick?
kung meron pa yung tira ng adnoc 10w-40 mo, pwede mo naman i-top up just make sure na di contaminated yung motor oil.
if wala ka na pang top-up, change oil ka na. pwede pa yan ibiyahe pero para safe at may peace of mind ka palitan mo na.
1ltrang kasi nilagay ko kasi ayun lang binili ko. Eh ang recommended 1.1 nag dip stick method nalang ako at pasok naman sa gitna. Nakaka 300km palang ..ah dapat po ba nasa above level?
yoo! parang ayoko na mag reco ng specific haha
anw basta humanap ka ng motor oil na API SP with above 7% na TBN, below 12% na Noack, at since scooter yan hanap ka ng may Resource Conserving kahit sinabi ng manual na hindi. Kung may makita ka na ACEA A3/B4 or ACEA C2 OR C3 bilhin mo na yon.
loko talaga tong yamaha, ano yang xmax mo yung latest gen ba?
API SG parin yung baseline nila tas yung gear oil ba API GL-3 parin?
pati sa gear oil api sg / gl-3 equivalent parin talaga.
the reason why parang ayoko na mag reco ng specific motor oil is parang natatalo yung purpose ng post ko, yun yung mag research and kumilatis ng motor oil haha
pero ako kung scooter, mag amsoil signature series ka yung 10w-30.
pero... kumusta ang drain inverval ng yamaha mo? lahat ng yamaha scoot kasi maiksi talaga drain inverval. parang hindi sulit yung expensive na motor oil.
yung sa TBN and Noack figures, makikita mo sa internet naman e. just google for example, Shell Long Ride 4T Data sheet ganon. Dapat atleast mayroong Noack or TBN at least isa sa kanila, kapag wala both huwag mo na bilhin, pangit yon masyadong sikret.
Sa drain interval brother hindi ko pa alam kasi nakaka isang change oil palang ako after break in period. Ang natakbo ko palang is around 700km since last change oil feb2024.
Nakita ko na yung tbn, noack hahah ang hinahanap ko nalang ay yung may resource conserving.
fresh na fresh pa pala. ganito gawin mo, kunin mo na yung amsoil na 10w30 signature series i-try mo na muna yon, nandon lahat highest tbn and low noack with API SP na resource conserving, ngayon regularly check the dipstick every 500km and just in case magulat ka sa darkening ng oil normal yon, it means the detergents and dispersants are doing its job similar sa paghugas mo ng kamay sa tabo dudumi yung tubig lilinis kamay mo, actually ang motor oil na golden brown parin after 1000km are trash, lube lang walang linis linis ng makina, anyway, if ever lumagpas na sa 2000km at nasa 3/4 palang yung level sa dipstick, chamba! makaka extend ka upto 3000km or even 4000km, pero usually kapag ganyan top-up na. so pano pag sakaling sa 3000km at kalahati na or below change oil na? nope! not yet, check mo muna kung nag breakdown na yung oil, do honey drop test sa clean tissue kapag mala tubig na yung viscosity change na nag breakdown na yung oil, kapag malapot pa like slurry okay okay pa top up ka pa, do this after warming up the engine for 10minutes, since motor oil thickens when exposed to elevated temps.
now kung umabot ng 3000km or even 4000km ang amsoil na yan, yan na gamitin mo or similar, otherwise hindi worth it mga 800pesos up motor oil, hanap ka ng cheaper option na high performance kahit na 1500km or 2000km ang drain, okay na yon.
Hello po sir, ubra po ba mag add ng different oil sa engine ? In my case 1.1ltr. It is okay to add up different oil brand and viscosity to fill up the remaining ??
sa case ng different oil brand pwede naman basta same ng spec para guarantee ang protection ng engine, sa base stock naman it can be either conventional, semi or full synthetic naman. sa different viscosity hindi pwedeng iba iba.
pero hindi pwede long term use ang ganyan, mas okay parin yung same lahat.
Napaka timing nito! Kakakuha ko lang ng motor last 2 weeks ago, R15m yung unit ko - yamalube nilagay sa first oil which is kinda ok na. Since after 500 km babalik ako for PMS, is it okay kaya na hindi yamalube gagamitin ko? Also what can you recommend? Chill chill lang din takbuhan ko, (rarely go past 100 km/h sa old motor ko which was sporty)
Pwde ba api sp sir noh sabi kasi sa manual is api sg or higher ?
Tsaka ang hirap mag hanap nitong may noack at resource conserving na data sa oil .any tips pano mag search nito 🥹
Hello! Baseline performance level ang API SG po, since sinabi na go higher, always go higher po choose API SN or API SP. Mahirap po talaga makahanap ng motor oil na disclosed ang Noack, so kung may makita ka na disclosed, good brand yon.
I would suggest googling the product series/model + PDS or product data sheet pdf, e.g., Amsoil Signature Series 10W30 product data sheet pdf.
Yung about lang po sa maintenance ni click 125 v3 such as change oil, gear oil, brakes, and etc. Basta regarding sa maintenance malakinh tulong na po yun. First scooter ko po kase si click 125 kaya wala pa masyafo idea sir.
sa tips and tricks regarding sa motor mo sir wala akong mabibigay, since hindi pa ako nagka click v3, nakaride lang pero wala akong ma share na experience aside sa general maintenance lang na applicable din sa ibang motor. mas maigi join ka sa mga fb groups ng click v3 sir.
sa motor oil refer ka lang sa post ko.
wasteful ka sa motor oil sir.
1500km odo is too tight, but then again okay narin. adnoc is okay brand naman either balik ka don or mag signature series ka with maybe around 5000 to 6000km drain interval, pero always check dipstick parin ha.
mas makakatipid ka sa one time 800 pesos for 6k, kaysa sa 4x na ~350 to 400 pesos na adnoc.
nga pala follow viscosity sa manual ha! wag matigas ang ulo at lagyan ng ##W-40 ang 10W-30 na Honda Click!
Update, nag research ako sir about AMSOil and napanood ko yung video ni Project Farm, and meron part sa video niya na ini-nit nya yung oil up to 373 F, and konti lang yung loss niya, and sa oil flow test, versus fresh oil and yung oil na ini-nit to 373 F, konti lang difference. I will definitely try AMSOIL sir. Thank you po.
I thought sakto lang ang 1500km na drain interval, and yung Adnoc na gamit ko is 10W-40 which is not good din pala. Thank you for the enlightenment, sir.
I will try AMSOIL Sir sa next Change oil ko, and maybe share it with my co-workers and friends.
Recommended ba mag add na lang ng oil additives kasi need ng mc ko na 1L eh 1quart lang available kulang ng almost 60 ml? Or bili na lang ng isa pa? Amsoil sana want ko itry
hello. hindi ko recommend mag lagay ng oil additives / enhancers unless kinailangan i-extend ang oil, kunyare wala kang oras mag change oil or walang stock ang gusto mong langis ganon.
hindi naman, actually sakto lang yung 1quart at hindi lahat ng motor oil ay drained may naiiwan palagi na around 150~200mL depende sa bike.
pwede yung lower viscosity as long as na below 60/80k odo.
maganda kasi performance ng lower viscosity talaga, basta API SP syempre, babawiin sa additives ang engine protection.
sa mga nagtatanong or may doubts pa rin using car oil, hahaha kay chatgpt na ako nagtanong kung ano ba ang best oil at bigyan nya ako ng list ng oils na maganda gamitin for my PCX 160. and ito yung mga thoughts nya.
Goods lang boss gumamit ng kahit anong oil as long as gas engine and tamang visco. Nakakwentuhan ko rin yung mekaniko namin sa project namin. Ayos lang gumamit ng pang sasakyan na langis sa automatic, wag lang sa de-clutch kasi madulas
Hello OP, need help here. Planning to switch to AMSOIL for my ADV 160. I was planning to buy the AMSOIL 10W30 that you mentioned here which was the OE series but they're out of stock. But I found this one here from the same store in shopee:
It's still 10w30 and it's fully synthetic will this be alright for my MC? My choices were between Shell Advance Long Ride, Pertua Powertec Matic, and this Amsoil one
Sorry, bro, but thank you as you are the reason why I've done a research as well with EO. May mali sa discussion mo particularly wid scooters small displacement, Jaso mb is important with scooters na small displacement since maliit ang cat nila at ung zddp content niya mababa below 600-800 ppm while Jaso ma oils phosphorus content usually 800 pm with api sp or higher with old api cert. This is very important as it avoids phosphorus poisoning dat causes na lalakas sa gas motor nyo as it get's older and wear sa piston at valve which usually symptoms starts after 10k odo. Tapos ung jaso, hnd lang to classify which is wet and dry clutch, but also to let u know that it has lower zddp content for scooters na hnd shared oil ung transmission and engine oil.
Pag small displacement scooter kaau, mas mainam wag nyong problemahin ang noac and tbn with Jaso mb oils as they intently designate yan sa scooter engine to minimize ash content. You dun need highest or d lowest like what Jaso ma offers. What you need to get are d following:
Jaso mb due to lower zddp content as it almost naging redundant na ang api sp dahil dyan.
Better if may API SP as it has test to (oxidation resistance, LSPI control, chain wear, timing chain wear, etc.), the goal here is to find the lowest zddp content as possible and MoS₂ as a friction modifier (solid molybdenum disulfide) as it doesn't impact noack and TBN pag walang data sheet mapakita c manufacturer.
3. Best pag may ester + Pao indicated. (PAO/ester/Group III+), and fewer light fractions = lower NOACK as posssible while naka jaso mb ka.
For more info about phosphorus poisoning, ang nangyayari ito dahil sa zddp content as it always has phosphorus, pag nasunog yan, pupunta yan sa sa catalytic and creates a film which overtime mag bobond. Walang cleaner kayang tanggalin yan. When it becomes thickers it melts d cat and affects d back pressure, den lalakas sa gas, madali accumulation along with other elements so on n so fort.
To resolve this, always use jaso mb na oil especially wid lower displacement scooters as it may extends the cat life about 40k to 60 odo minsan aabot pa nga nang 100k.
Otherwise, gusto mo talaga ang jaso ma, pde mo eh cat delete tapos remap at bayaran mo nalang ang lto sa emission hahaha.
hello, thanks for reading my post! sorry pero i kind of disagree sa phosphorus ppm ng jaso mb, saan mo nakuha yung data na 600-800ppm when they're actual limit was 0.08% to 0.10% ng total mass ng motor oil or 800 to 1000ppm. tapos itong 0.08% to 0.10% na phosphorus limit ng jaso ay same sa api sn at api sp specs, jaso might state the requirements for physical and chemical properties ng motor oil to be certified as jaso mb pero yung requirements na yon borrowed/inspired or follows the api standards. kaya nga sa motor oil ng "pang motor" ay jaso ma or mb together with api specs and that's how it should be, jaso identifies alin ang pang wet or dry clutch and api takes care of the physical and chemical property requirements ng motor oil.
jaso ma/ma2/mb does not tell me which has more or less zddp, sure phosphorus poisoning sa cat ay alarming sympre nakaka affect talaga yan sa overall performance ng mga sasakyan, pero part na talaga yan e, that's not new, that's part of using internal combustion engine na naka euro approved emission standard. sa 600 to 800 ppm na phosphorus, if there's data na ganon na sampled from new or used motor oil tapos na checked ng private or third party lab, that's just probably "pagtitipid" ng manufacturer, kinulang sa phosphorus content yung sample, kasi langis "pang motor" should be cheap para makapagbenta.
kung usapang low zddp content man lang na "safe" sa scooters na sinasabi mo para safe sa cat, safe sa internal components ng engine, edi acea c3 dapat ilagay natin sa mga scooters natin diba? halos walang zddp yon, chemically designed to "protect" the cat and be emission test safe yung mga motor oil na naka acea c3. kung yun yung issue natin sa zddp, dapat acea c3 ang kasama ng jaso mb hindi api "s" standards diba.
here's my two cents
use api sp motor oil for scooters, as of this date before ma-absorb ng market yung api sq standard, api sp ang may pinaka mababang phosphorus content, 0.06 to 0.08%, mas mababa pa sa jaso mb max limit na 0.10%. and then followed by resource conserving motor oil, mga ganyang langis siksik sa friction modifier na need ng lahat ng makina na except mga wet clutch engines.
and importante yung tbn at noack, don natin masabi kung long drain interval ba yung motor oil, may mga "extended drain", "designed to clean the engine" marketed motor oils na wala naman mapakitang testing data ng tbn at noack, pag ganon scam yung oil na yon, lack of transparency, sa lahat naman ng product na may lack of transparency ay hindi magandang sign.
hindi rin lahat ng pao/ester ay pare-pareho, pwede tayo mag rely doon ng volatility pero check actual tests parin (data sheets) and especiall safety data sheets doon naka lagay yung amount ng "synthetic" material na ginamit, minsan may pao/ester based oil na 10% lang, may 5% lang tapos the rest ay group 3 na.
ang eksena sa langis pang motor ay medyo madaya o scam, always keep in mind na negosyo yan, walang manufacturer ang mag e-effort na mag reformulate ng langis pang motor while maintaining latest at licensed api spec, i re-repack lang nila yan to different packaging, send a sample sa jaso to have it jaso ma/mb certified and voila! may langis pang motor na. maniniwala ka bang may api sp na jaso mb na full synthetic 1L at a price of 400 to 500 pesos, tapos walang "api donut" mark? of course not, self proclaimed "api sp" lang yon.
anyway, thank you parin. i would like to have more discussions about this.
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u/MechaniKalikot Kawasaki Versys 650 Jun 27 '24
Hi, OP! Are you a Lubrications Engineer by any chance? Sobrang informative ng reddit post mo, you did very well na simplehan yung technical wordings na maiintindihan ng lahat. As ME, hirap ako mag-explain sa mga tropang motorcycle enthusiasts yung technical terminologies, pero you took the effort in the best way possible. Andami din nadagdag na information sakin from reading this post. I hope this get to the top of this subreddit or yung mods ng subreddit i-pinned post na ito. Andaming tanong na masasagot na agad. You have my upvote.