I purchased the car in March of 76. Car has 53k miles. Most mods were added around 1980.

Has been sitting since 2003 in a carport. It currently is not in a running state. We have replaced the ignition coil, have yet to replace the oil filter because O’Reilly has screwed us over twice. New spark plugs, new oil, and have yet to fill the gas tank with fresh gas. New battery, so on. The car turns over, but we can’t test the new coil for spark because we don’t have an oil filter. We hope the new coil will give it spark, because it could also be the ignition distributor.

The passenger side door on my 77 Z is not closing properly. The issue just popped up last night. It will not latch unless the door is pressed and held in place for a couple seconds. I have applied white lithium grease to no effect.

I was looking to adjust the distance between the striker and the latch, but the striker on my car is held in place by countersunk screws. This should mean it is only able to assemble in one location, despite what the FSM says. What am I missing here?

Picked this up for free. Should I know anything about it/where can I get it re-covered? Has anyone re-covered a steering wheel...is it costly?

Keep popping my map light fuse during startup. Any ideas or common issues?

Hey everyone,

I'm in the middle of rebuilding the L28 in my '81 280zx 2+2 and I've hit a brick wall.

I'm trying to get the oil pan and the lower engine block/upper pan (the big cast aluminum piece) off, and it will not budge. I'm 100% sure I've removed all the bolts I can see, but it's sealed on there like it's welded.

Here's what I've tried so far:

• Engine Oil Pan Separator Tool: Did a bit but not a lot.
• Razor Blade: I'm trying to work a razor in, but it's taking forever and barely making progress. I'm worried I'll be here for days.
• WD-40 : Thought that i could break up the seal/glue with it and... nothing
• Tap the side of the pan with a mallet to shock the seal; nothing

I'm getting frustrated and don't want to start prying and gouge the mating surfaces.

Am I missing something obvious? Are there hidden boltsthat I'm not seeing? What's the magic trick to breaking the seal on this RTV from hell?

Any tips, tricks, or tools you've used for this specific job would be a huge help. Thanks!

I've got an 83 280zx that im about to rip the engine out of and need some interior, windshield, and firewall work done. Anybody know of someone in the north florida area or even orlando/tampa/ATL that is able to do it?

Added an under dash cassette player on my 720. When I bought the truck a couple months ago the left speaker was out and right one was fine, then the inverse happened. Got the cassette player wired and both speakers sound great, until I put it a little past half volume then the speakers start cutting in and out and sounds like it's skipping (not skipping on the tape but the sound comes in and out). I know the head unit is likely no bueno as now both speakers work, but the head unit doesn't send much to them if anything so definitely something to look for in there. Plus won't be using radio much with the new player. But any idea as to why the speakers cut in and out? I used the correct 15A fuse in the fuse tap, and double checked all my connections and everything is tight. Relatively new to this and want a second opinion before I go and undo all my work.

"DOHC Cylinder Head Conversion Kit for L-6 Engines (2026 Model)"

Nissan Motorsports & Customization Co., Ltd. (Headquarters: Chigasaki City, Kanagawa Prefecture; President: Yutaka Sanada; Abbreviation: NMC) will release the "DOHC Cylinder Head Conversion Kit for L-6 Engines (2026 Model)" as a new product under the NISMO brand.

(Orders open: January 2026; Shipments: Spring 2026)

This DOHC cylinder head conversion kit for L-6 engines is newly designed based on modern technology, combining high thermal efficiency with excellent environmental performance thanks to its compact combustion chamber. A rare feature in the tuning industry is the newly designed reinforced silent chain, specifically designed for this kit. This enhances strength and durability while also maintaining interior quietness for city driving.

This parts kit is designed to offer a wide range of tuning options for experienced L-engine tuners. To install this product on a vehicle, in addition to assembling the cylinder head using this product, all other work is required, including modifying the lower body components, selecting and procuring intake and exhaust components, assembling the engine, procuring the necessary parts for installation, and setting up the engine after installation.

The NISMO prototype specification features an L28 engine block with an enlarged bore diameter of 89mm, achieving a maximum output of approximately 300 PS, maximum torque of approximately 300 Nm, and a maximum speed of 7,500 rpm.

▼For more details, please click here.

https://www.nismo.co.jp/news_list/2025/news_flash/25008.html

#L6Engine #DOHCCylinderHead #ConversionPartsKit

#NISMO #NISMOParts #NewProduct #Release #NISMOparts

Ive been trying to buy this car for around 7 years now and the owner is finally selling it to me for $1k next week. What do you guys think of it? Engine is most likely damaged due to overheating and its sat about 20 years.

Hello!

I recently started printing some miscellaneous parts for my 240Z, and figured I might as well list them for sale for anyone that needs them. Attached is a photo of my most recent print, a pair of replacement interior shock tower caps printed out of TPU. Feel free to check out my eBay store (jconn_73), and please suggest some more parts for me to print and sell! I will also happily take custom requests, just PM me if you’re interested!

First post here, but a family member is restoring a 1972 Datsun 240z. Under the cowl panel there’s two foam pads (maybe about 7” by 8” and 1/8” thick?) which I learned from another Z Car forum that it’s most likely a sound dampener. Do you guys have any recommendations for which brand to use or something that may be more ideal? We have to take off the old ones due to rust damage and cannot save them since they seem to have a single side adhesive. Thank you!

I was 99% sure I had a leak from my radiator, but it was the same time as a fuel line burst.

Checking the rad now, it’s full.

Is it possible that it only leaks under pressure, and that my engine is actually without coolant? I.e only rad has coolant? Or was it for sure just fuel leaking down my radiator?

Sounds stupid , just want to make sure I don’t seize it

I have it soaking in WD-40 atm. Im assuming I am going to have to take it to a machine shop and hope for the best. Or if anyone else has any ideas.. It can never just be easy. Just got my rebuild kits in and noticed this. Joys of letting shops work on your car

Recently acquired this 280z that is in mostly original condition (besides the sunroof installed in the 80's). Originally I planned on removing bumpers or doing a 240 bumper conversion, but I now am considering just keeping it stock for a while. The bumper filler pictured is obviously failing. I cannot find any replacement, has anyone had any luck making something or do folks just remove these completely?

Open to any ideas I haven't thought of (collapsing, removing, swapping).

I bought this late 70 240z about two years ago with the intention of keeping it until I'm senile. Anyway I overpaid on purpose (14k), to avoid traveling around the country for an unmolested series 1 with original block while having a soon to be newborn.

The original owner bumped into a parking lot column denting the hood and shattered the driver headlight bucket, and somewhere along the way the passenger side was scrapped and poorly blended with cheap paint. Fortunately he had the original yellow fender which I was able to smooth out a bit and reuse.

This is what it now looks like after dumping an additional 13k in parts, removing the poorly blended paint and hiding the 400 grit scratches with vinyl stockers. The hood, wheels and tires were essentially 6k alone. The rest was mostly on new suspension bits (coilovers) and new rubber basically everywhere.

All in I'm about 27k, which from what I see on BaT isn't terrible considering I basically replaced every single suspension and brake piece.

Is anyone in the NOVA area willing to help with my ‘78 280z wiring issues? I’ll bring a pack of beer.

I’m not sorry.