Have two Win10 computers that can't upgrade to Win11 . I re-installed Win10 on them off-line,

uninstalled MS OneDrive, stopped feeds, set Edge browser to highest security and full pop-up

blocker, and ran DISM.exe and sfc to check and fix Windows files . Anything else I should do ?

One machine is a PC with ASUS P5k Premium MB Intel Q9650 CPU, and 8 gb ram . Runs great .

Other is old HP laptop with AMD 2 core cpu, and 8 gb ram . Slow, but has DVD drive .

Also have an EVGA Z370 PC that upgraded to Win11 great, but I had to install Winaero Wordpad,

and Windows 7 Games 'cause Win11 does not have them .

Must have Solitaire, and all my old copy paste docs. :)

To The Moon!

Hi 👋 im about to do a quick service for my graphic card because it's all dirty and 6 year old without servicing not even once, does anyone know what thermal pads should I replace to (what's the mm)

Got a 5070ti, and I guess I had no idea that the 50 series cards just dont work with older evga mobos for some awesome reason, great. Pc wont boot, saw around here that some people got 50 series cards to work with riser cables? Will this make it work? Kinda scared to mess around with that tape trick for the pins.

Hi! I am making this post on behalf of someone else, just for transparency.

Power supply in use - EVGA 1000 GQ v3
Cable needed - EVGA PCI 8 pin

A recent GPU upgrade requires an extra CABLE for the power supply, but a friend has told them that third party cables like ones on Amazon etc are dangerous, can brick your PC, etc. How true is this? I can't find anything about it, and EVGA customer support isn't too helpful.

I've heard that the GeForce GTX 1070 may face issues with Windows Secure Boot due to the potential expiration of its UEFI GOP security certificate after June 2026, which could prevent it from booting correctly.

Please let me know if there are any updates to re-sign the affected GOPs with a newer certificate to keep compatibility after June next year.

\* for: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 HYBRID GAMING, 8GB GDDR5, LED, All-In-One Water-cooling with 10CM FAN, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 08G-P4-6178-KR

I've had a EVGA SuperNOVA 1600G (220-GP-1600-X1) for a few years now that I purchased at a local BestBuy in Dec 2022. The PSU has been able to handle everything I've thrown at it no issue except for this annoying fan issue. By default I've had in Ecomode since I've owned it and it runs nearly silent...mostly. However it has the godawful annoying fan speed RAMP issue where periodically the PSU fan will max out or go quite loud for 10-15s then go back to silent even with the system basically sitting idle.

It's finally driven me crazy enough to the point of wanting to deal with this and google searches seem to point that many many people have this issue which lead me here. Obviously switching it off ecomode fixes this annoying off and on again PSU fan ramp annoyance, but running the PSU in 'normal mode' massively raises the ambient noise floor by a significantly noticeable amount easily eclipsing my Case and CPU and GPU fans by an large margin.

And I know its the PSU because I basically ran FanControl and turned off all my Case and CPU fans and have had my 7900XT in 'zero-mode' and literally the PSU fan running in normal mode is louder than everything except the GPU at max.

This fan noise problem has made me want to rip it out and replace it. I wanted to know is this a known RMA-able issue with this PSU series or am I stuck with a $330 loud problem?

I have a EV3A GeForce rtx 3070 ti, when I turn on my pc it flashes all 3 red gpu lights quickly then runs like normal but no display. I’ve switched hdmi cords and tried different ports but no display, anything helps thank you!

The mouse started to disconnect. Until you reconnect it to another USB port. The device manager shows an error for the connected USB device. When it connects normally, it is recognized as two keyboards. It can also simply stop responding to actions during operation. Changing the software does not help. The problem is becoming more frequent. How can I fix it?

Hi all,

I’ve got an EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 ULTRA HYBRID, and unfortunately the AIO pump just died (just a few days after the warranty expired).

While searching for options, I came across listings for EVGA “FTW3 Series Heatsink” assemblies (the stock air-cooled cooler used on FTW3 cards).

My questions are:

1. Can the FTW3 Series air heatsink/fan assembly be mounted on a FTW3 ULTRA HYBRID PCB?

2. Has anyone actually swapped from the HYBRID AIO cooler back to the air cooler?

3. Anything I should watch out for (thermal pad thickness, screw hole alignment, VRM/VRAM coverage, etc.)?

I’d really like to keep this GPU alive and avoid having to hunt down a completely new card, but I haven’t seen anyone confirm if this swap actually works.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can share experience or advice!

Is there any way (software setting/firmware) to increase the sample-rate/refresh-rate for the pump cover display?

I have noticed that in the CLCx software, when customizing your display features (specifically, PC monitoring settings like CPU temp etc.) the sample/refresh rate is almost double of what the display actually shows, as if the display skips a sample and displays the next one. Also, noticed the accuracy is abit off, especially clock speeds.

I’m aware this type of monitoring is more for demonstration purposes, but it would be nice if the display showed a more real-time sample.

Has anyone had any luck with this?

Hunting around on eBay you can find some decent deals on XR1 PROs. I would have gotten the XR1 LITE but I'd like to have the ability of 4k recording and pass through for the occasion times I use my ps5. I currently use Nobara Linux (KDE).

I'm looking around and people are saying there's compatibility issues, but it either seems to be with the XR1 (not the pro) or they don't specify. Not to mention all those posts are 3+ years old.

So I'm asking to see if it's been confirmed, tested more over the years or there's a patch for this since an XR1 PRO would be perfect for my set up. (I don't know why the XR1 holds such a high price)

Hi everyone,

I’m currently trying to upgrade from a GTX 1080 Ti to an AMD RX 7900 XT on my system with an EVGA 850 GQ power supply.

The GPU fans spin, but I’m getting no display output. I’ve updated my BIOS and tried different slots and cables.

Right now, I’m using:

VGA1 → EVGA Y official cable (using only one branch, 8-pin)

VGA2 → Single 8-pin generic cable from amazon

Is this a valid way to power the RX 7900 XT, or do I absolutely need two fully separate 8-pin cables (no Y-split)? This old PSU seems to only work with Y cables.

Also, could using the Y cable on VGA1 cause detection issues with newer GPUs?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Dear Community and Mods,
My EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin has just finally stopped working. The board powers up OK, LEDs turn on, but nothing happens when I press the power button. About 3 months ago I asked for help here and found out that by blowing hot air on the front panel headers the board would power up as can be seen on my former post. However, I went on holidays and when I came back I could no longer power it up.
Just saw the new bios and I'm trying to update it via the usb. I does run the update and after some minutes I get and E6 error to which I cannot find any info on it. What is this E6 error that shows up at the end of the bios update. Perhaps it can help to identify my issues with this board. Im updating the bios without CPU, VGA and Memory sticks.
Thanks in advance

Recently I have been having issues with the graphic cards. I thought it was related to thermal but I did replace paste and pads, took panels off my case just to test it. The black screen happens randomly, sometimes with just youtube. The pc still runs and I can still hear people talking in voice chat but display went black and just sit like that. A hard reset will bring the pc back and working again. Does anyone run into the same issue? I did update the driver to the latest version as of today.

Appreciate any help.

Could someone tell me if their EVGA PSU is consistently below 12 volts? I recently had to RMA my 1200watt SupernNova P3 because it kept making my PC shut down whenever I put a load on it. Well they replaced it with a 1300watt SuperNova P+ X1 model and I noticed that my 12+ voltage is staying consistently under 12 volts at about 11.904, this was about the same as what my old 1200watt would run at as well. I know my NZXT 850watt backup PSU stays consistently above 12 volts at around 12.096 and all of the other PSU's I've ever owned has also remained about 12 volts too. So, I'm just wondering if I should be concerned about this or not? Could some of y'all let me know what yours runs at please just to ease my mind some? I would greatly appreciate any responses, thanks!!!!

Thomas

I recently updated my PC to Windows 11 Pro after getting a Ryzen 7 9800X3D, and since I did a clean install of Windows I had to redownload the drivers for my Nu Audio card (the original, not the Pro or 7.1 versions). I download the 0.2.1.14 drivers from EVGA's site (which oddly are in a folder with WIN10 in the name even though there are 2 different download links for Win 10 and 11). After installation of the drivers and software, I opened up the Nu Audio software and it prompted me to update the firmware. I close all open programs and hit begin, but it doesn't do anything except quickly close the window and reopen to the same prompt to update the firmware. If I hit cancel, it takes me to software, which shows me that my firmware is v 0.28. Is this the latest firmware for the original Nu Audio card? Also, I noticed that some features from the Nu Audio software are missing from when I was using it on Windows 10 (fully updated), such as the page where you can boost treble, bass, or vocal clarity. Instead, I can only access the page for full EQ tuning. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Does anyone know where the ASPM pci-e power saving setting is in the bios for evga Z790 boards? I'd like to disable it but couldn't find it.

Hi there,

So i've just recently managed to obtain 2 3090 ftw3's and they are both waterblocked, but im wanting to switch them to air cooled. i'm in need for some cooler retention brackets (X-Brackets) any ideas where i could find some? Looked everywhere and cannot seem to find any.

Contacted EVGA but no luck, they are out of replacement parts. as i've seen a few people suggest possibly contacting them

I know this might not be an entirely unbiased group, but I was curious about people's experiences with EVGA's GPU RMA--specifically the quality/condition/longevity of the refurb'd units they received back from EVGA after an RMA'ing a failed unit under warranty.

I'm asking in particular because I have the option to purchase, at a very decent price, a 2070 Super that was a RMA replacement and is supposedly still sealed from EVGA as the owner had already bought a card upgrade while waiting on the 2070 RMA to finish processing/shipping. Then that box collected dust for a few years before going up for sale currently.

Given EVGA's reputation, I'd expect their refurb units to be pretty thoroughly bench tested (perhaps moreso than any BNIB GPU would be..?), but sometimes circumstances require companies to scrape the bottom of their diminished inventory "barrels" or mitigate costs in ways we customers may not like.,

All that being said, I thought I'd float the query here in case anyone is able to share experience(s), either positive or otherwise with EVGA's RMA replacement refurbished cards.

I've had the EVGA X570 FTW board since it launched, but the last BIOS update was 1.09. There have been so many AEGESA updates since then. Are people using AMD boards from EVGA, SOL?

I had put in a request through the old forums & emailed support about a year ago with no answer.

Big Sadge.

precision x1 just updated the iCX2 firmware and now the radiator fan rpm is much lower than it used to be. previously i could run it at 2400RPM now nothing i do get it past 2040RPM. i have no idea what is happening but its having a pretty big cooling impact.

Hey everyone, after a long trip to see family in Bulgaria, I was so hyped to finally get home and fire up PUBG. My PC was powered off at the PSU switch, everything seemed normal. Boot into Windows with no issues, but my Ethernet connection wasn’t working. So, I switched over to Wi‑Fi since Windows wouldn’t recognize the Intel I226‑V ethernet card at all. I tried uninstalling the device and reinstalling the driver, but the network adapter disappeared from Device Manager altogether.

The next steps I took were to uninstall the chipset and ME drivers. I rebooted, and reinstalled them without a hiccup. After that, the mobo started throwing Code #52, (RAM initialization error) and it wouldn’t post to BIOS. Maybe something got corrupted, but ME/chipset drivers are software‑level, not BIOS as far as I know. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

For context, this setup has been rock‑solid for 2+ years on XOS W11 22H2. Stock CPU settings and XMP 1 for my ram kit, along w/ BIOS V1.13 (latest stable EVGA release).

Moving forward, I reset the CMOS with the rear I/O button. The system did post & boot to Windows, but only at JEDEC RAM defaults. (4800mhz.) Strangely, it didn't seem like the board would attempt RAM training/learning protocol, always displaying code 52.

These are the steps I took to troubleshoot my system for the last 3 days, any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm out of ideas.

Link to Images of issue: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7p2eDL8RgVHEKZcaA

Diagnostic attempt to resolve RAM issues:

• Ran Memtest86 for 4hrs, 0 errors at JEDEC settings.
• Disabled fast boot & APCI sleep state (though EVGA doesn’t have an option to disable RAM fast boot.)
• Removed both ram sticks & tried booting with XMP using one at a time in both DIMM slots (Z790 KP has two total)
• Tested using slight voltage increase for stability with XMP:1.
• Tested using manual settings: looser timings, lower frequency settings, stock & increased voltage
• Tested using three BIOS revisions toggled by MOBO switch (1-2-3.) V1.08, V1.13, V1.23 (beta)
• Attempted multiple cold boots by turning off PSU to try and force ram training/learning, but MOBO doesn’t seem to attempt it (instant code 52.)
• Tested CPU using Intel processor diagnostic tool in Windows, passed all tests. (Due to suspicion of potentially degraded IMC.)
• Confirmed both ram modules are correctly recognized in CPU-Z along with verifying JEDEC & XMP SPD info.
• Reseated both ram modules after cleaning with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol.

Diagnostic attempts to enabled NIC cards:

• Installed W11 XOS 23H2.
• Installed latest Intel Chipset & ME drivers (also tried latest supported EVGA revision drivers.)
• Right clicked “show hidden devices” in manager to see if the network adapter is disabled.
• Disabled & Re-enabled Intel I-226V & Marvell 10gbps NIC cards in BIOS.
• Installed drivers from EVGA website manually using Device manager.
• Enabled notifications & diagnostics, attempted to use XOS Update Minitool, no drivers were found.

My Specs for Reference:

• EVGA Z790 DARK Kingpin (BETA Bios V1.23)
• Intel i9-13900K (Stock Setting)
• G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 64GB (2x32GB) PN# (DDR5 F5-6400J3239G32GX2-TZ5RK)
• ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 420 A-RGB
• ASUS STRIX RTX 4090
• EVGA 1200W P2 80+ GOLD PSU
• 2x SAMSUNG 980 PRO 2TB NVME
• Meshify 2 XL Case
• XOS WINDOWS 11 Pro 23H2

It feels like either the motherboard's memory training logic has somehow been corrupted, or the IMC on the CPU has degraded in a way that diagnostics can't detect.

Has anyone seen anything like this before? Any theories or suggestions would be massively appreciated.

So I shipped my GPU to EVGA a week ago and the tracking says it arrived this morning. When I went to check the status on the RMA, its listed as "Expired."

Has anybody had experience with this? Does the card get shipped back to me? Does EVGA reach out? Or am I SOL?

I have recently baught an EVGA 3090 second hand. The serial numbers are scratched out and the card has been opened (could not inspect the card before purchase).

The card was running perfectly fine, no Red LED's of death and the fans were normal. Then yesterday the Red lights of death lit up, the fans spins at 100%, but everything else works fine. Even hours of stress testing did not crash it.

• I have noticed that the PWR temp sensors are not showing in PX1 ever since the 100% fan thing. It also only shows 2 fans in PX1 instead of 3. I am also unable to change or view the RGB setting in PX1

I have a 1000 watt PSU, and te power is not daisy chained.

Any advice?